Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can you fit "19" on a GTST R33?

.......well can you with out the wheels scraping or rubbing when on full lock????

19" isn't the problem, as the rolling diametre should remain the same. In fact, some members of the forumn even have 20 " wheels keeping almost the same diametre.

I have never seen 21" wheels on a skyline, but that would have to be near the max.

Offset and width are the main causes of scraping

19" isn't the problem, as the rolling diametre should remain the same. In fact, some members of the forumn even have 20 " wheels keeping almost the same diametre.

I have never seen 21" wheels on a skyline, but that would have to be near the max.

Offset and width are the main causes of scraping

Are you sure you know what you are talking about?

I have 19's and the rolling diametre is different, the speedo reading also gets affected (lukily for mine, it became more accurate, as it was reading to fast with the std wheels)

20's would probably NOT fit on a gts-t, as the 19's barely miss the upper control arm joint on the front wheels.

Are you sure you know what you are talking about?

I have 19's and the rolling diametre is different,  the speedo reading also gets affected (lukily for mine, it became more accurate, as it was reading to fast with the std wheels)

20's would probably NOT fit on a gts-t, as the 19's barely miss the upper control arm joint on the front wheels.

I think he does know what he's talking about...

as rim size increases, tyre profile decreases.

legally, the size of the added rim/tyre package must be within 15mm of the largest factory option for that car..

a lot of people think that legally you can just go up 2" from the largest factory but its all about the final size with the new tyre/rim package.

you could probably get the 19's on it, but guards might need to be lipped to stop them scraping at full lock

I think he does know what he's talking about...

as rim size increases, tyre profile decreases.

legally, the size of the added rim/tyre package must be within 15mm of the largest factory option for that car..

a lot of people think that legally you can just go up 2" from the largest factory but its all about the final size with the new tyre/rim package.

you could probably get the 19's on it, but guards might need to be lipped to stop them scraping at full lock

SO what profile do you have on YOUR 19's??

My rims are 19x8 all round. My tyre profile is 245/35/19, and this has a 1inch bigger rolling diametre than std wheels. So to put his (and your) theories into math; after doing a few simple calculation, you will need to have the following profile to have the same rolling diametre: 245/25/19.

Are tyres available with a 245/25/19 profile? And who will want to pay hundreds more dollars for such a specific profile with very hard "ride" characteristics?

So once again i ask: Do you, or the other person, have experience with wheels and tyres? If not, do you really know what you are talkin about?

I have no "work experience" with wheels and tyres, but have had my 19's for about 2.5yrs and did alot of research and asked, the experts/fitters, alot of questions.

SO what profile do you have on YOUR 19's??

My rims are 19x8 all round.  My tyre profile is 245/35/19, and this has a 1inch bigger rolling diametre than std wheels.  So to put his (and your) theories into math; after doing a few simple calculation, you will need to have the following profile to have the same rolling diametre: 245/25/19.

Are tyres available with a 245/25/19 profile?  And who will want to pay hundreds more dollars for such a specific profile with very hard "ride" characteristics?

So once again i ask: Do you, or the other person, have experience with wheels and tyres?  If not, do you really know what you are talkin about?

I have no "work experience" with wheels and tyres, but have had my 19's for about 2.5yrs and did alot of research and asked, the experts/fitters, alot of questions.

well going by what you've said, you're rims are un roadworthy on your car.

have you seen tyres that look like rubber bands ? they may not have the best ride or whatever, but if someone wants their car to be roadworthy, with massive rims (in theory a BA XR8 can have 20's and a BA GT can have 21's) then they're gonna need LOW LOW LOW profile rubber bands

well going by what you've said, you're rims are un roadworthy on your car.

have you seen tyres that look like rubber bands ? they may not have the best ride or whatever, but if someone wants their car to be roadworthy, with massive rims (in theory a BA XR8 can have 20's and a BA GT can have 21's) then they're gonna need LOW LOW LOW profile rubber bands

1/ I know :)

2/ Are such tyres legal? And do ppl actually drive on these low, low, low profile tyres?

3/ We are not talking about FORDS, the topic specifically states R33, keep to the topic :)

1/ I know  :)

2/ Are such tyres legal?  And do ppl actually drive on these low, low, low profile tyres?

3/ We are not talking about FORDS, the topic specifically states R33, keep to the topic  :)

yeah i know its about skylines mate, i was just making a comment...

they'd be legal because of how wide they are, which makes the load rating higher even though there is basically no profile to the tyre...

i think 25's can only be found in like 295's....profile that low looks so hot

they'd be legal because of how wide they are, which makes the load rating higher even though there is basically no profile to the tyre...

Actually the wider the tyre, the lower the load rating - the perpendicular forces acting on the sidewalls, from the tyre face in contact with the road, will be greater the wider the tyre. As a result the tyre design demands a much higher stiffness sidewall for wide tyres. Therfore, generally the crap ride from low profile tyres is from two-fold effects - less sidewall profile to absorb shock, and stiffer sidewalls themselves.

Secondly, the lower the profile, the lower the load rating due to the same reason as above - there is more force being exherted by the tyre trying to negate the perpendicular force drawing the sidewall toward the centre of the tyre, versus foce trying to hold the tyre (and car) up in an axial direction. You will find that there are only a few 265/35 (GTR) size tyres that will meet the Nissan placard load requirements - ask Jamezilla who was defected for insufficient load rating on his GTR.

Lastly, legally you can only increase rim width by one inch (in Vic anyway). That would mean that the approx max increase in tyre width you can legally go is ~40mm, eg. for a R32GTR with factory 8" wide rims, the tyre is 225/50/16, you can go to a 9" rim, say R34GTR rim in 18x9, which is generally recommended to have no wider a tyre than a 265/35/18 tyre.

You mentioned that you can find 25 profile on a 295 wide tyre.

Do you know that the sidewall profile is a percentage of the width and not an actual measurement? ie:The wider the tyre the lower the profile to acheive the same rolling diametre.

It's nice to say "yep they'll fit mate, you can even get bigger" but make sure that you have experience or knowledge in the advice you give.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...