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Hey everybody, I'm considering buying either a 33Gt-st or 34Gt-t in a few months and I just want to make sure about how much these things cost to run, like average dollars per year, not including modifications. If anyone wants to comment on what it will set me back, or how much they currently spend (dont be embarrased folks) please do. Stuff like:

*Rego

*greenslip

*Insurance

*Servicing (how often, and how much for the 100k service)

*Tyres

*petrol

*Antyhing else I've missed

I'm just looking for a safe figure to save per year to be covered for everything

I've done my own research into most of this too, so please dont tell me to go to google, but i just want peoples point of view who own one.

Will it cost any more to get a 34gt-t serviced over a 33gtst?

Also, I'm leaning towards a 33gtst, simply because i can have it sooner and mods are more common and cheaper. Plus i think for 30 grand you can have a 33 with 12 grand put into it or a stock 34, but also i know that 34's are way less common, have less kms and are a bit better engineered and refined in all aspects.

So if anyones got any ideas, opinions or if i have missed anything feel free to comment. Cheers

The R33GTS-T and R34 GT-T would have very similar similar running costs. They both run the same motor which is identical except for the different engine mangement they run (I think?). Servicing is the same for both vehicles at the same intervals. Insurance would be more expensive in the R34 solely due to the fact of the higher value it has to be insured for. Other than just the initial cost of the vehicle it almost exact.

The only issue with the R33 is that being an older vehicle, not as well engineered and refined as the R34 and the fact that they would in most cases have travelled alot more km's than the R34's on the market they would tend to have more of a risk of things going wrong with them in addition to the cost of servicing.

Also consider the resale value of the car you are buying. Selling your car modified you won't get anywhere near as much money back for what you paid for the car plus the cost of the modifications. R34's could also depreciate in value over time but being far less common it wouldnt be as bad.

On a general level people choose between the models by two aspects. Buy an R33 for a cheaper peformance car or buy an R34 for better looks, better interior and being a newer vehicle. However different people have different opinons. My opinon for example would be for you to stay away from S1 R33's and consider importing a vehicle yourself if you are interested in buying a stock(ish) clean vehicle.

You might be surprised with the insurance on an R34

Insurance goes on statistics. Less R34's have been written off by irresponsible driving, therefore, statistically they are less of a risk, therefore less insurance.

yeah insurance also depends on how old you are.... me being 18, my R33 gts-t costs me like 2,500 in comp insurance, not so bad on other running costs but, fuels always gonna be expensive.... stamp duty and that goes by how much you payed for the car, not what type of car it is, rego isnt that much either, the only thing you really have to watch out for when buying any skyline is to see if its been thrashed by the previous owner.... i.e take it to an racv inspection place, they'll tell you EVERYTHING right down to theres a spec of gum on the back seat.... coz thats what it said in the report i got back from them, other than that gts-t and that arent that expensive to run compared to some other cars.

*Rego

*greenslip

*Insurance

*Servicing (how often, and how much for the 100k service)

*Tyres

*petrol

*Antyhing else I've missed

These are fairly obvious and the same with any car you buy.

I would be looking at what has had to be replaced as in repairs due to wear and tear.

My self.. I've almost clocked 190,000km's (bought at 67,000) and had to replace the following.

Clutch master cylinder x 2 ($63 each)

Clutch Slave cylinder x 1 ($40 each)

Radiator top tank x 1 ($90 inc labour)

Clutch Fan ($~50 second hand)

Genuine Nissan Cam belt ($90) Did the water pump at this time also, that was $83.

I have replaced a clutch twice, purely for power reasons. The stock gave out due to age. So not really because it 'broke'.

With the RB20DET I changed oil and a filter every 10,000km's with at first Penrite HPR10 then I moved on to the cheap Motul mineral oil.

The RB30DET gets castrol 10w60 and a K&N Oil filter now. :D

I do all the work on my car myself. I can't afford to waste money getting some one else to do it.

Rating 1 insurance is just over $600 per year, 18k agreed value.

I had a 1996 VS Exec Commodore prior that was a V8, 5 speed, FE2, IRS, SRS, ABS bilstein suspension all round, hd swaybars, 3.5" exhaust etc etc. and that was costing me $600 even.

The VS at the time was valued at 20k.

In 2001, my skyline costed me over $18000 for the year. As i had to defend myself on a dangerous operation of a motor vehicle, even though I was having dinner and my car was parked in the carpark. Long story, got thrown out of court in the end, but it still costed me money, and getting compensation from criminal proceeding, is like finding unicorn poo.

yeah insurance also depends on how old you are.... me being 18, my R33 gts-t costs me like 2,500 in comp insurance, not so bad on other running costs but, fuels always gonna be expensive.... stamp duty and that goes by how much you payed for the car, not what type of car it is, rego isnt that much either, the only thing you really have to watch out for when buying any skyline is to see if its been thrashed by the previous owner.... i.e take it to an racv inspection place, they'll tell you EVERYTHING right down to theres a spec of gum on the back seat.... coz thats what it said in the report i got back from them, other than that gts-t and that arent that expensive to run compared to some other cars.

Thanks for the info guys, where do i find one of these racv inspection places, ive never heard of them before?

*Rego

*greenslip

*Insurance

*Servicing (how often, and how much for the 100k service)

*Tyres

*petrol

*Antyhing else I've missed

These are fairly obvious and the same with any car you buy.

I would be looking at what has had to be replaced as in repairs due to wear and tear.

My self.. I've almost clocked 190,000km's (bought at 67,000) and had to replace the following.

Clutch master cylinder x 2 ($63 each)

Clutch Slave cylinder x 1 ($40 each)

Radiator top tank x 1 ($90 inc labour)

Clutch Fan ($~50 second hand)

Genuine Nissan Cam belt ($90) Did the water pump at this time also, that was $83.

I have replaced a clutch twice, purely for power reasons. The stock gave out due to age. So not really because it 'broke'.

With the RB20DET I changed oil and a filter every 10,000km's with at first Penrite HPR10 then I moved on to the cheap Motul mineral oil.

The RB30DET gets castrol 10w60 and a K&N Oil filter now. ;)

I do all the work on my car myself. I can't afford to waste money getting some one else to do it.

Rating 1 insurance is just over $600 per year, 18k agreed value.

I had a 1996 VS Exec Commodore prior that was a V8, 5 speed, FE2, IRS, SRS, ABS bilstein suspension all round, hd swaybars, 3.5" exhaust etc etc. and that was costing me $600 even.

The VS at the time was valued at 20k.

It might be just me but that seems like a pretty small repair bill for 123000kms worth of driving, correct me if im wrong. Im guessing youve got a 32, so wouldnt that be good?

In 2001, my skyline costed me over $18000 for the year. As i had to defend myself on a dangerous operation of a motor vehicle, even though I was having dinner and my car was parked in the carpark. Long story, got thrown out of court in the end, but it still costed me money, and getting compensation from criminal proceeding, is like finding unicorn poo.

Yeah ive heard that unicorn poo is pretty rare. $18000 for the year? Were you 3rd party and wrote the car off? What did it take to rack up a bill that big?

Ok one honest question. Does anybody think its viable to own an R34 and maintain it on $450pw after tax, taking into account a $20000 loan repayments (saved the other $10000 or so towards the car)?

$450 pw after tax, good luck

depending on how u drive

you are looking at $100-$150 a week in loan repayment

insurance will be about $50 a week (2500 p.a.)

rego and 3rd party. $20 a week or so

petrol depending on how many k's u do, i do about 200 k's a week and thats about 30 bucks, but if u do more, then say $50 a week

so out of each pay you got $200-$270 going straight into your car.

This is before tires, services, and other incidentals

can you live off $200 a week.............

$450 pw after tax, good luck

depending on how u drive

you are looking at $100-$150 a week in loan repayment

insurance will be about $50 a week (2500 p.a.)

rego and 3rd party. $20 a week or so

petrol depending on how many k's u do, i do about 200 k's a week and thats about 30 bucks, but if u do more, then say $50 a week

so out of each pay you got $200-$270 going straight into your car.

This is before tires, services, and other incidentals

can you live off $200 a week.............

I can while I'm at home! I've been living on $50, saving the rest for the car. And that includes petrol in the $50. $450 was my lowest, sometimes it goes up to about $600 depending how much i get called in to work.

So my main problem is the loan repayments. I'll think about trying to save for half of the loan as well, that will halve the repayments.

Thanks for your advice everybody keep it coming

Yes, I own a R32. Its been an excellent car, was imported privately in 1998, I bought it in 2002 with 67k on the clock.

450pw after tax.

Don't get in over your head, it only makes owning the car misserable.

Take a step back in to a cheaper model and make it go fast. :D

I would grab a realistically priced R32. Possibly even a 4 door just to stick it up them Commodores. :D

The cheaper car will allow you to have some change left over so that you are able to make it handle and accelerate damn quick.

Head down to the local track or Motorkana and have some fun with it.

Enjoy the car and use it what it has been designed for.

Don't worry mate, im on $320 take home. 2nd year apprent wages. Go into 3rd in Oct :D

I manage to sustain my r33, im also paying off a block of land that is worth $45k

I service every 5000kms, I do all the servicing myself. $50 for oil + $12 for a filter. $20 for pod filter cleaner, which will last me for 10 years.

Cheers

Sumo

Don't worry mate, im on $320 take home. 2nd year apprent wages. Go into 3rd in Oct :)

I manage to sustain my r33, im also paying off a block of land that is worth $45k

I service every 5000kms, I do all the servicing myself. $50 for oil + $12 for a filter. $20 for pod filter cleaner, which will last me for 10 years.

Cheers

Sumo

Thanks heaps for that, made me feel heaps better was starting to stress i could never get one. I think I'll save for a while more to be on the safe side though. Thanks for the thoughts everybody

If you can service the car yourself you'll save alot.

If your worried about the age of the R33 - get a 40th Annv. one like I did - it's 98 - got ~70k on the odo, great mechanical and cost about $10,000 less than an R34 GT-T would have.

as for getting it on the road.. I got mine 1 month ago and this is what it's cost me so far..

NRMA inspection: $360 (cos it's a turbo, well worth it though)

rego: ~$650

greenslip: ~$300

insurance: ~$2000

alarm: ~$900

full tank of petrol: ~$90 (which lasted about a weekend or so lol)

Also don't forget the 3% stamp duty which will be about $400..

= ~$4300 to get it on the road fully insured..

Now that i've slowed down - I only drive mine the weekend + a couple of nights a week - so about $30 - $40/week petrol..

Tyres should last a while if your not doing 2 many km's or burnouts..

Service - lookin at about $250 - $300 for a general service..

good luck - great car.. but yeah - adds up..

My car on finance.

Numbers $510 p/m

Insurance $1300 p/year

fuel (30,000 kilometers per yer) $300 p/m

servicing no mods $1500p/year

Tyres $1000 p/year

Lets add it up

$6120

$1300

$3600

$1500

$1000

Total $13,520

That's $260 per week.

Thanks heaps for that, made me feel heaps better was starting to stress i could never get one. I think I'll save for a while more to be on the safe side though. Thanks for the thoughts everybody

my loan repayments are $400 a month, and i live at home still coz i only turned 18 a few months ago, i manage to pay that ezy, if your take home is 450-600 a ( fortnight??? ), just put half a pay check away one fortnight and the other away on the time the repayments due... simple.

and as for those racv inspection places, if your an racv member, you call them, tell them you've got a car you want them to inspect, and they'll tell you which one is closest to you, usually they come to you, but coz the skylines turbo it has to go in for some reason.

B)

R32 GTR

green slip 575

rego 600

number plates 400

insurance ?

servicing 600 a year

tyres 1500 a year

and for this year rebuild engine 15k and next year will be 15k for turbos and computer ect ect

these are great cars as long as you treat them well there lots of fun.

P.S frist year goverment employer 800-1000 a week

R32 GTR

rego - $420ish (I pay yearly)

insurance - $2200 (prolly come down after I am 22)

petrol - ~$70 a week (~$3600 a year)

I dunno about repairs and tyres, but I just got some Fulda Extremo's for $788 ($1032 normally)

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