Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

How responsive is it compared to stock?

You have basically the same setup im going for except you're using 2560R's whereas im going for the HKS GT-SS's. I'm probably just gonna opt for 2xRB25 AFM's too.

You're running the stock fuel pump minus the low/high resistor right?

Overall a very nice result, grats!

You can keep your stock afms with the gtss's Kris unless you want to run huge boost ( above 1.2 bar ) .

In relation to results at WSID - LOL

First time at the drags, I had 3 runs. Two of them i absolutely buggered up. The first run bogged down with a 2.2 60 foot time. Runs were done at 15 pound boost, because my boost controller was playing up :angry:

I'll be back next week a fair bit earlier

In relation to results at WSID - LOL

First time at the drags, I had 3 runs. Two of them i absolutely buggered up. The first run bogged down with a 2.2 60 foot time. Runs were done at 15 pound boost, because my boost controller was playing up :angry:

I'll be back next week a fair bit earlier

:ohnoes:

Dont worry Tommy, sounds like you had some first time nerves. Will be good to see what the car can do.

In relation to results at WSID - LOL

First time at the drags, I had 3 runs. Two of them i absolutely buggered up. The first run bogged down with a 2.2 60 foot time. Runs were done at 15 pound boost, because my boost controller was playing up :angry:

I'll be back next week a fair bit earlier

what kind of times did you run? for the 2.2 60 was it bogging down or wheelspin?

Getting the launch right in a GTR with big turbos is a pain...such a fine line between sitting there smoking and bogging down.

I guess the 7000rpm launches might not work with these turbo's hey?

do you need to ride the clutch for a little bit in this instance?

12.7 for a first outing is a good start for sure.

I would have launched that first one at 5000 rpm MAX. And i really dont make decent boost until something like 6k or more. Next time I'll try to rev it out a bit more. I think i got there at about 7/730, so it really didnt give me much time to have many runs. Had absolutely no idea what i was doing, where i was going, etc.

I will be there next week. Hopefully boost controller issues will be sorted and ill be running 18-19 psi.

Either the turbos are just really big and laggy for my setup or something funny is going on ?

What gear is it that you don't see 15PSI till 6000RPM? My turbos are bigger than yours and I get full boost (1.3 kg) by about 4800RPM in anything above 2nd. I don't think I even get full boost in 1st though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
    • Do you have any before and after photos? That's $200 just for the hydro blasting?
×
×
  • Create New...