Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Skylines Australia NSW Club second official drag day is coming.

Date : Saturday 5 November. It's closer than you think!

Cost : $190 for Members ($95 now, $95 later).

$220 for non members ($110 now, $110 later.)

$100 for second drivers.

No experience necessary. Just come along and have a go.

Track opens 7:30am

Sign on 8-9:30am

Driver briefing 10am

Racing 10:15 to 1pm

Lunch 1-1:30pm

Racing 1:30-4:15pm

This time there will be 2 crew, 3 spectators and 1 photographer permitted per driver. The photographer is nominated so as to avoid too many people milling around the pit area.

As before, it's quite like a street meet in terms of rules etc. except you get a lot more runs in. Those who came last time can attest to the relaxed nature of the event.

This time the club is going out on a limb and taking on the event alone because there were too many people who missed out last time. We need to get deposits in as soon as possible so as to secure the day. If everyone sits back and waits then the event may be cancelled.

Ok then. It's time to get depositing.

The Skylines Australia bank account details are as follows:

Bank - NAB

Branch - Marrickville

Account name - Skylines Australia NSW

BSB - 082 356

Account number - 546 393 766

First deposit is $95 or $110 although you can deposit the full amount if you like.

Please put your full name in the description. If you are depositing at a branch (how quaint :D) then make sure you put your name on the deposit form (I know there is a spot for it on there somewhere) and ask the teller to enter it so he/she doesn't forget.

When you have done all this email me at - sarpi at punkass dot com - with your internet banking receipt or date and branch of deposit.

Please include in the email:

Full name -

User name on the forums -

Mobile Number -

Amount paid -

Copy and paste the above to make it easier for me.

Important - You will not be confirmed until a deposit has been made.

Thank you.

So who's keen? What do you all think? Any questions?

UPDATE

There are no spots left at the moment. There is normally a few cars dropping out closer to the day so post your interest here to be on the reserve list. First come best dressed.

Seconds payments are now due.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83842-club-drag-day-saturday-5-november/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 520
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Adam, as usual count us in mate :P:D:D Will send you a PM about it

I could also have a possible 10 other entries unless they join this forum as well and express their own interest....

Adam, clean out yoru PM's as well mate :D:D

Guest DIRTgarage
Adam, as usual count us in mate :):D:D Will send you a PM about it

I could also have a possible 10 other entries unless they join this forum as well and express their own interest....

Adam, clean out yoru PM's as well mate :):D

We are in too....i mean two

Adam,,,I'm interested but I don't understand a few things, can I run my Sports Sedan and what sort of licence would I need?. If I need to purchase a licence and/or alter the car,,, what sort of money are we talking. I have a budget to run my car and don't want to blow it just to see what it will do in a straight line.

Neil.

is nv033 racing his T88 powered 4 door, haak was telling me his gunna smash buster

hehaheha this is the funny thing i've read for the day!!!.....i want to c this!!!!!!!!!!hahehahe look at the nick "SPY"

abo....count me in this time..i will do the payment soon....

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...