Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone have pics or have fitted 18 x 9 +30 with a 235/40 on the front of a 32 gtst?

i got mine on atm, adn its mm's from touching the uca, but i just would like to see how low people have gona with at the front

i am running coilovers so i can adjust, but cant drive car as engine pieces getting powdercoated

Nick

i'm looking at getting some meisters for my r33

looking at

19x8.5 or 9 at the front

19x9.5 or 10 at the back

what kind of offset is required? it wont be slammed i want to roll the lip on the guard

heres how it rides atm wit 18s 265s on the rear and 235s on the front no idea on offset of rims

n822125108_1809247_8221.jpg

okok thanks for that if those offsets are for sitting flush with the guards i mite go a bit lower in offset so its sticks out like 5mm

so something like 19x8.5 +25 and 19x9.5+30 and hopefulli i wont hit the guards when i put the dampers on the hardest setting

okok thanks for that if those offsets are for sitting flush with the guards i mite go a bit lower in offset so its sticks out like 5mm

so something like 19x8.5 +25 and 19x9.5+30 and hopefulli i wont hit the guards when i put the dampers on the hardest setting

the issue is 19's arent great for fitment because u cant gain as much clearance by stretching tyres

from another thread in this section:

fitting a 9.5 +22 with a 225/45 tyre would actually be pretty easy, my main concern is being a 19" wheel, even though it will be the same amount of stretch, the angle will be sharper, like so:

fitment.jpg

the blue is a smaller wheel with a larger profile, and the red is a larger wheel with smaller profile but same size tread. the green is at sitting height, the yellow is on compression, the angle change in the 2 guards is due to dynamic camber, obviously in real life its the wheel/tyres angle that changes, but its easier to just show the guard changing angle.

as u can see the lesser angle of the sidewall on the tyre on the smaller wheel allows the guard to come down further, even though the offset, rims width and tread width are all the same. hence why its really hard to get agressive fitment on higher diametre wheels.

so its hard to really get the fitment right with them. with the specs i gave u, depending on the camber they will probably just stick out of the guard a few mm at the rear.

Hey everyone. First time posting here I believe. PM'd a few guys about things, but that's it.

Anyway, I have a set of TE37's I was planning on putting on my widebody Sileighty (S13.5), but since decided to go another route.

I currently have a '93 R33 GTS-T Type M coming across the Pacific and was wondering how well my wheels would fit.

In the front I have 17x9 +0 and in the rear, 17x9.5 +12.

I have no clue about Skyline offsets and to be honest, did not want to take the time to go through so many pages.

If someone could help me out, that would be super!

Hey everyone. First time posting here I believe. PM'd a few guys about things, but that's it.

Anyway, I have a set of TE37's I was planning on putting on my widebody Sileighty (S13.5), but since decided to go another route.

I currently have a '93 R33 GTS-T Type M coming across the Pacific and was wondering how well my wheels would fit.

In the front I have 17x9 +0 and in the rear, 17x9.5 +12.

I have no clue about Skyline offsets and to be honest, did not want to take the time to go through so many pages.

If someone could help me out, that would be super!

They will stick out the guards by heaps. About +25 to +40 is ok for a 33 GTSt.

Are you from the states?

Hey everyone. First time posting here I believe. PM'd a few guys about things, but that's it.

Anyway, I have a set of TE37's I was planning on putting on my widebody Sileighty (S13.5), but since decided to go another route.

I currently have a '93 R33 GTS-T Type M coming across the Pacific and was wondering how well my wheels would fit.

In the front I have 17x9 +0 and in the rear, 17x9.5 +12.

I have no clue about Skyline offsets and to be honest, did not want to take the time to go through so many pages.

If someone could help me out, that would be super!

u can make them fit, but u will need guard work, silvias usually have more clearance in the rear guards, the fronts are similar how ever.

heres a few pics, R33's have a bit more clearance than the R32's.

17x9.5 +13, 235/45 30-40mm flare (mock up with unfinished guard)

DSCN0153.jpg

17x9 -1, 215/45, 30-40mm flare

DSCN1952.jpg

17x9 +16, 225/45, rolled guards

DSCN9843.jpg

Ive been reading through but just getting mixed answers

I have a 96 r33 gtst series 2. Currently has 17" work's not sure of the offset.

However i dont want to do any gaurd rolling or flaring (dont want to damage the paint) so im assuming i couldnt get anything over an 18"

What size, width and offset would you recomend for stock gaurds?

THANKS :D

Ive been reading through but just getting mixed answers

I have a 96 r33 gtst series 2. Currently has 17" work's not sure of the offset.

However i dont want to do any gaurd rolling or flaring (dont want to damage the paint) so im assuming i couldnt get anything over an 18"

What size, width and offset would you recomend for stock gaurds?

THANKS :(

width and offset play just as big if not bigger roles in clearance than diametre. u can make a 20" fit if u want, u just cant go as wide or have as low offset as a 17".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...