Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh front will be close to the UCA, bloody close, generally i say 235/45 with a +30 offset is the furthest in id go, 225/45 will protrude 5mm less in, and about 4mm lower, but u have 8mm more offset pulling the tyre in further. so it will definitely be close, and probably come down to the tyre model and individual car as to whether it actually scrubs or not, but nothing a spacer a few mm thick cant fix.

my bet is that it will clear, but no guarantees on that one.

do you know what the difference in diameter of a 235/45/17 tyre and a 235/40/18? I'm guessing only a few mm.

I had 17x9 +38 with 235/45/17's and they were fine on my 32.

yeh front will be close to the UCA, bloody close, generally i say 235/45 with a +30 offset is the furthest in id go, 225/45 will protrude 5mm less in, and about 4mm lower, but u have 8mm more offset pulling the tyre in further. so it will definitely be close, and probably come down to the tyre model and individual car as to whether it actually scrubs or not, but nothing a spacer a few mm thick cant fix.

my bet is that it will clear, but no guarantees on that one.

Cheers for your help.

I'll find out in a couple of weeks when they arrive if I need to run a spacer or not, but I couldn't say no to the rims. Silver GT-C's on a grey 32.....mmmmmm tasty ;)

do you know what the difference in diameter of a 235/45/17 tyre and a 235/40/18? I'm guessing only a few mm.

I had 17x9 +38 with 235/45/17's and they were fine on my 32.

mm, yeh it comes down to each car and tyre design it seems, when i ran 235/45's with he +30 on mine, i could feel maybe a 3mm gap between the tyre and UCA.

mm, yeh it comes down to each car and tyre design it seems, when i ran 235/45's with he +30 on mine, i could feel maybe a 3mm gap between the tyre and UCA.

Yeah i've had some bridgy 235's and they were way skinnier than a dunlop 235 haha. dunlop sat square and bridgy looked stretched!

yeh when i used to drift on 2nd handies id go through so many tyres, and it was crazy to see the difference in them every time id put a new one on, all different brands had different shapes and clearances mounted up.

Hey nisskid, going crazy trying to work out what to do with ordering new wheels, especially seeing as tho i cant trial fit...

Currently looking at a set that i can get in the following -

· 18 x 8 only comes in offset +35 and +45

· 18 x 9 comes in offset +20 and +36

· 18 x 10 comes in offset +15 and +35

would ideally like a mildly aggressive fit, but dont want to have to flare. dont mind a roll and removing the plastic guards tho.

looking at 18x9 +20 front and 18x10 +35 rears or just the 9"+20 all round on an R34 GTT lowered on nismo coilovers, no camber adjustment as yet

any advice?

thanks mate

Hey nisskid, going crazy trying to work out what to do with ordering new wheels, especially seeing as tho i cant trial fit...

Currently looking at a set that i can get in the following -

· 18 x 8 only comes in offset +35 and +45

· 18 x 9 comes in offset +20 and +36

· 18 x 10 comes in offset +15 and +35

would ideally like a mildly aggressive fit, but dont want to have to flare. dont mind a roll and removing the plastic guards tho.

looking at 18x9 +20 front and 18x10 +35 rears or just the 9"+20 all round on an R34 GTT lowered on nismo coilovers, no camber adjustment as yet

any advice?

thanks mate

thats a hard one, as 18x9 +20 would sit pretty nice and aggressive, but 18x10 +35 is a bit soft, and wont really suit the agressiveness of the front. u could go 18x9 +20 all round, but if u want to keep the staggered width, id be going the 18x10 +35 and correcting the camber to around -0.5, this will pull the top out, and give u more grip. from there id probably go extended wheel studs and some hubcentric slip on spacers to get the fitment perfect.

the 10" +15 can be made to fit without a flare, but ull need camber and stretch, and by the sounds of things its more aggressive than what ur after.

thats a hard one, as 18x9 +20 would sit pretty nice and aggressive, but 18x10 +35 is a bit soft, and wont really suit the agressiveness of the front. u could go 18x9 +20 all round, but if u want to keep the staggered width, id be going the 18x10 +35 and correcting the camber to around -0.5, this will pull the top out, and give u more grip. from there id probably go extended wheel studs and some hubcentric slip on spacers to get the fitment perfect.

the 10" +15 can be made to fit without a flare, but ull need camber and stretch, and by the sounds of things its more aggressive than what ur after.

thanks heaps mate, pretty much what i was thinking.

its my daily after all so i'd prefer not to go too crazy, but i just remember not being entirely satisfied with my last wheels on my old 33 (cr kai 18x8.5 +32 / 18x9.5 +38). fit really well but could have looked a lot better, which is why im kinda shy of going the 18x9 +36 and 18x10 +35 in these wheels.

hey fellas how would these fit on an R33 gtst

18x9 +15 (front)

18x9.5 +15 (rear)

btw my rear guards have been rolled flat so shouldnt be too much issue there

also i was thinking tire wise

215/35/18's for front

235/35/18's for the rear

hey fellas how would these fit on an R33 gtst

18x9 +15 (front)

18x9.5 +15 (rear)

btw my rear guards have been rolled flat so shouldnt be too much issue there

also i was thinking tire wise

215/35/18's for front

235/35/18's for the rear

front might sit out slighty ive got 18x9 +30 on front with 25mm spacers and it sticks out about 20mm atm but putting wider front guards.. back should be fine

nisskid will be able to tell you better though!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

that set up should be fine although im not sure about those tyre sizes wouldnt that be not enough sidewall to stretch? well i guess it would jsut be harder to stretch

just a quickie

how bad would it be too occasionally run on the track

225/45R17 front

265/35R18 rear

cause i got spare pair of 18s with 265/35 and dont want to waste it

and i thought 225/45R17 would be good comprimise for grip/drift front tyre, i would go a 215 but i think the difference to 265 is too much

cheers

hey fellas how would these fit on an R33 gtst

18x9 +15 (front)

18x9.5 +15 (rear)

btw my rear guards have been rolled flat so shouldnt be too much issue there

also i was thinking tire wise

215/35/18's for front

235/35/18's for the rear

will be quite aggressive, id go a 225/40 on the rear. depends how much camber u have, as it will be tight, but depending on the camber u will get away with it.

will be quite aggressive, id go a 225/40 on the rear. depends how much camber u have, as it will be tight, but depending on the camber u will get away with it.

running -2 degs on the rear and -0.5 on the front, so the fronts would be ok with that width and aggressive offset?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...