Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh front will be close to the UCA, bloody close, generally i say 235/45 with a +30 offset is the furthest in id go, 225/45 will protrude 5mm less in, and about 4mm lower, but u have 8mm more offset pulling the tyre in further. so it will definitely be close, and probably come down to the tyre model and individual car as to whether it actually scrubs or not, but nothing a spacer a few mm thick cant fix.

my bet is that it will clear, but no guarantees on that one.

do you know what the difference in diameter of a 235/45/17 tyre and a 235/40/18? I'm guessing only a few mm.

I had 17x9 +38 with 235/45/17's and they were fine on my 32.

yeh front will be close to the UCA, bloody close, generally i say 235/45 with a +30 offset is the furthest in id go, 225/45 will protrude 5mm less in, and about 4mm lower, but u have 8mm more offset pulling the tyre in further. so it will definitely be close, and probably come down to the tyre model and individual car as to whether it actually scrubs or not, but nothing a spacer a few mm thick cant fix.

my bet is that it will clear, but no guarantees on that one.

Cheers for your help.

I'll find out in a couple of weeks when they arrive if I need to run a spacer or not, but I couldn't say no to the rims. Silver GT-C's on a grey 32.....mmmmmm tasty ;)

do you know what the difference in diameter of a 235/45/17 tyre and a 235/40/18? I'm guessing only a few mm.

I had 17x9 +38 with 235/45/17's and they were fine on my 32.

mm, yeh it comes down to each car and tyre design it seems, when i ran 235/45's with he +30 on mine, i could feel maybe a 3mm gap between the tyre and UCA.

mm, yeh it comes down to each car and tyre design it seems, when i ran 235/45's with he +30 on mine, i could feel maybe a 3mm gap between the tyre and UCA.

Yeah i've had some bridgy 235's and they were way skinnier than a dunlop 235 haha. dunlop sat square and bridgy looked stretched!

yeh when i used to drift on 2nd handies id go through so many tyres, and it was crazy to see the difference in them every time id put a new one on, all different brands had different shapes and clearances mounted up.

Hey nisskid, going crazy trying to work out what to do with ordering new wheels, especially seeing as tho i cant trial fit...

Currently looking at a set that i can get in the following -

· 18 x 8 only comes in offset +35 and +45

· 18 x 9 comes in offset +20 and +36

· 18 x 10 comes in offset +15 and +35

would ideally like a mildly aggressive fit, but dont want to have to flare. dont mind a roll and removing the plastic guards tho.

looking at 18x9 +20 front and 18x10 +35 rears or just the 9"+20 all round on an R34 GTT lowered on nismo coilovers, no camber adjustment as yet

any advice?

thanks mate

Hey nisskid, going crazy trying to work out what to do with ordering new wheels, especially seeing as tho i cant trial fit...

Currently looking at a set that i can get in the following -

· 18 x 8 only comes in offset +35 and +45

· 18 x 9 comes in offset +20 and +36

· 18 x 10 comes in offset +15 and +35

would ideally like a mildly aggressive fit, but dont want to have to flare. dont mind a roll and removing the plastic guards tho.

looking at 18x9 +20 front and 18x10 +35 rears or just the 9"+20 all round on an R34 GTT lowered on nismo coilovers, no camber adjustment as yet

any advice?

thanks mate

thats a hard one, as 18x9 +20 would sit pretty nice and aggressive, but 18x10 +35 is a bit soft, and wont really suit the agressiveness of the front. u could go 18x9 +20 all round, but if u want to keep the staggered width, id be going the 18x10 +35 and correcting the camber to around -0.5, this will pull the top out, and give u more grip. from there id probably go extended wheel studs and some hubcentric slip on spacers to get the fitment perfect.

the 10" +15 can be made to fit without a flare, but ull need camber and stretch, and by the sounds of things its more aggressive than what ur after.

thats a hard one, as 18x9 +20 would sit pretty nice and aggressive, but 18x10 +35 is a bit soft, and wont really suit the agressiveness of the front. u could go 18x9 +20 all round, but if u want to keep the staggered width, id be going the 18x10 +35 and correcting the camber to around -0.5, this will pull the top out, and give u more grip. from there id probably go extended wheel studs and some hubcentric slip on spacers to get the fitment perfect.

the 10" +15 can be made to fit without a flare, but ull need camber and stretch, and by the sounds of things its more aggressive than what ur after.

thanks heaps mate, pretty much what i was thinking.

its my daily after all so i'd prefer not to go too crazy, but i just remember not being entirely satisfied with my last wheels on my old 33 (cr kai 18x8.5 +32 / 18x9.5 +38). fit really well but could have looked a lot better, which is why im kinda shy of going the 18x9 +36 and 18x10 +35 in these wheels.

hey fellas how would these fit on an R33 gtst

18x9 +15 (front)

18x9.5 +15 (rear)

btw my rear guards have been rolled flat so shouldnt be too much issue there

also i was thinking tire wise

215/35/18's for front

235/35/18's for the rear

hey fellas how would these fit on an R33 gtst

18x9 +15 (front)

18x9.5 +15 (rear)

btw my rear guards have been rolled flat so shouldnt be too much issue there

also i was thinking tire wise

215/35/18's for front

235/35/18's for the rear

front might sit out slighty ive got 18x9 +30 on front with 25mm spacers and it sticks out about 20mm atm but putting wider front guards.. back should be fine

nisskid will be able to tell you better though!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

that set up should be fine although im not sure about those tyre sizes wouldnt that be not enough sidewall to stretch? well i guess it would jsut be harder to stretch

just a quickie

how bad would it be too occasionally run on the track

225/45R17 front

265/35R18 rear

cause i got spare pair of 18s with 265/35 and dont want to waste it

and i thought 225/45R17 would be good comprimise for grip/drift front tyre, i would go a 215 but i think the difference to 265 is too much

cheers

hey fellas how would these fit on an R33 gtst

18x9 +15 (front)

18x9.5 +15 (rear)

btw my rear guards have been rolled flat so shouldnt be too much issue there

also i was thinking tire wise

215/35/18's for front

235/35/18's for the rear

will be quite aggressive, id go a 225/40 on the rear. depends how much camber u have, as it will be tight, but depending on the camber u will get away with it.

will be quite aggressive, id go a 225/40 on the rear. depends how much camber u have, as it will be tight, but depending on the camber u will get away with it.

running -2 degs on the rear and -0.5 on the front, so the fronts would be ok with that width and aggressive offset?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...