Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GOT SOME NEW RIMS NOW

18x9.5 +15 te37s

rears will fit sweet (i think perfectly flush)

fronts will stick out about an inch i think so gonna dial in some camber and some stretch and see where we go from there hahaha

Roll the guards perfectly flat with some Cusco camber arms maxed in and they'll fit with ease :)

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d85/anml...rx/S6300027.jpg

WHEELS IN THE PICTURE ARE 17=8+5 FRONTS WITH A 215 40 REARS ARE 17=9+10 WITH A 215 40 work vs-mx

OLD WHEELS ON MY 32 KINDA MISS EM ....

ANYWAYS GOT A BIT OF A WHEELS PROBLEM FELLAS RUNNING 16=8-4 rears sit fine atm ...but the fronts arent clearing the brakes .so i put a 5mm slip on on the hub but thene the wheel sits off the hub! (danger!!!) cant put a bolt on on because it sits out a bit as is ...

the wheels have a steel insert was thiknig bout pressing them out and running a SHANKED STYLE WHEEL NUT (HOLDEN ,TOYOTA STYLE)

THAT WAY I CAN RUN THE SPACER TO CLEAR THE BRAKES .AND JUST HAVE A LITTLE MORE PEACE OF MIND AND SUPPORT ON THE WHEELS BTW THE SPACERS ARE 8MM SLIP ON ! ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED CHEERS FELLAS ..PICS WANTS THERE ALL ON

Edited by talky
pic dont work.

wouldnt bolt on spacers solve your issue as you will have new studs?

asi stted in my previous post ..cannot use bolt on wheel spacers as that will make them 8-20 and will sit mexcian as .so im trying to get around it ...but dont really wanna remove the inserts! but might have to

without looking i'm gonna guess this will be a pic of superlights on a 31

speak to jezzaGTR as he has the same setup (if i'm correct)

hey mate nah its a 32 4 door thought id try something diffrent with the 16s and yer there superlights lol.....so im just trying to get em to work properly arghhh

5mm slip on should make it impossible to put the wheel on..

roll fronts + camber?

or

flare?

easiest option sounds like what u suggested..

mmm its already got a lil flare and i dont wanna the front look stupid compared to the back man mmmm ill see wot happens wene i remove these bloody insetrts cheers man

hey all got me new rimz on work vs-xx dont look to bad

Skyline model = r33

Wheel diameter = 18

Wheel width = fronts 9,rears 10

Wheel offset = fronts +30 with 15mm spacers, rears +25

Tyre size = fronts 225,40 rears 235,40

Modifications to fit = none as yet, fronts scub a real lil bit just going to pull them out a lil bit

post-57137-1284709879_thumb.jpg

post-57137-1284713297_thumb.jpg

post-57137-1284713337_thumb.jpg

post-57137-1284713377_thumb.jpg

yeah they are 9inch rim +30 and 15mm spacers so yeah would be +15

im going to pull the inner guards out and pull the guards out so ill have planty of room

and yeah looks mint niskid CHEA BOI

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...