Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh wat yeah i no the feeling man im getting married in feb next year so i cant go that crazy with me car till after that, just want to get me injecters and comp so i can have some real fun lol, wat rimz ya getting or is it going to be a surprise.

Congrats. I've posted what I'm getting on sau somewhere but from now on it's a suprise lol :P

img1589s.jpg

I was considering powder-coating my XT7s in black for my R34, but decided against it.

Now you're making me think about it again damn you lol.

But I must agree with previous comments......one of the toughest 33 GTS-T's around.

Just needs that front lip painted black to finish it off :P

Edited by BTM
235/40's and rolled guards and you can tuck that easy :)

Thanks for that, what about 18x9 +4 f and 18x10 +4 r would take fair bit of work to tuck them in hey?

i have a friend that has 18 9 with 0 offset they stick out a lil but all he did is rolled the guards flat and pulled the guards out a shit load by hand and it come up pretty good im running 18 9 +15 and i have only rolled the fronts a lil iv posted up pics just go back and have a look.

Thanks for that, what about 18x9 +4 f and 18x10 +4 r would take fair bit of work to tuck them in hey?

Fronts with a 215 or 225 would need a roll and pulling out, depending on height of course. Rear will need a roll and possibly a pull also depending on how much camber your going to run and how flush you want it. But it would look great lol

Mr Hamish,

You reckon you could tuck 18x9.5 +14 in your 33 as is with same size tyres you're using on SSR's?

easy... I have had 9.5+18's on there with no hastles

my new rims are gonna be 10+18's btw

dont forget my guards are pulled tho.... why?

Thanks for that, what about 18x9 +4 f and 18x10 +4 r would take fair bit of work to tuck them in hey?

9+4 would be doable on my rig, but 10+4 would need more flaring or camber.

still easily doable tho

Hamish,

I'm selling the GTR for another GTST, and I remember there's some room in your front guards when you have the professors in when I looked at it last.

So your answer is very useful, thanks for that, how much have you pulled the guards?

Cheers

Grant

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi All, I've read through this entire thread so I apologise in advance if I shouldn't ask this here (please direct me to the right spot)

I've come across some Works XD9's which are 18x9 +30 all round without tires. From everything I've read it seems these should fit fine on my R34 Sedan and will probably stick out about 5mm on the front? Anybody able to help with this?? Also they don't have tires, what's my best bet in terms of nice fitment?? (or is it best I just take the car to a tyre shop somewhere, I'm in Perth btw)

They are currently bronze but after seeing Blaqs I'm very tempted to go black also coz once you go black... =P

thanks in advance lads

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...