Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Thoughts on this size?

Rota Grids (concave version)

18x10 +35 offset

with 235-40-R18 and 245-40-R18 tyres

With the old tape measure there will be a bit of poke on the front, but im more concerned with what it might

touch under the arches!?!

http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=215&aspect=55&diameter=16&wheelwidth=6.5&offset=40&width2=235&aspect2=40&diameter2=18&wheelwidth2=10&offset2=35&Submit=Submit

^with the 235 tyres for the front

Cheers guys!

Anyone ever tried machining wheels to reduce the offset from say +22 to +27. This machining would be done on the inside hub where they would take out material to it. Koya Drift Teks and im willin to run a bit of a bigger tyre. If it doesnt work i guess ill have to sell and buy again.

it's possible as that's actually how drifteks are made from the factory, however you will also probably have to cut down the studs to suit.

It's also worth noting that the excess heat from the cutting will compromise the already compromised structural integrity of the rims

Heat shouldn't be an issue, as wheels and brakes do get very hot and Machining can be done slowly.

As joey said you will need shorter studs, or Wheel nuts with open ends. I had 6mm shaved off the front wheels of my beetle years ago....and didnt realise till I went to put them on, that the studs were now too long.

Let the machine shop/Enginbeer decide on how far they are willing to machine them.

Ok guys. Have gotten some Blitz Type 01 wheels in 17x9 with 22p offset. What would be the best width/height tyres to suit a R32 GTS-T standard guards? I believe 245-45 will fit the rears just, as there on atm (flush with the guards) but more concerned with the maximum width for the front, not fussed if the guard needs a little massage but don't want the insides to touch!

Also what tends to be the more popular sizes in 17 inch tyres?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...