Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just looking for people's opinion's on the latest microtech, whether you use it or not? I know the old ones didn't use a closed loop so they were pretty bad on fuel and were bad on cold starts but i'm told by my mate that the new L series of microtech's now use a closed loop and are much more programmable etc.

He can get me the LTx12 and it will be going on my Rb20 then onto my Rb30DET. The main reason he wants me to get it is because he is mates with the South Australian distributor and can get me it at a very good price!

I have been looking at the power fc but if they really have improved i think i will get one because he can get it cheaper than a power fc!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84261-opinions-on-latest-microtechs/
Share on other sites

Just looking for people's opinion's on the latest microtech, whether you use it or not? I know the old ones didn't use a closed loop so they were pretty bad on fuel and were bad on cold starts but i'm told by my mate that the new L series of microtech's now use a closed loop and are much more programmable etc.

He can get me the LTx12 and it will be going on my Rb20 then onto my Rb30DET. The main reason he wants me to get it is because he is mates with the South Australian distributor and can get me it at a very good price!

I have been looking at the power fc but if they really have improved i think i will get one because he can get it cheaper than a power fc!

If you have a Nissan then definetly spend the extra money on a Power FC. Apart from Autronic (without breaking the bank) they are the greatest ECU for a Nissan, Microtech have made slight improvements but not enoguh to better the Power FC.

:angry:

definatel microtech most of the top cars use them

im definately happy with mine

i have also supplied and fitted 7 microtechs with no problems

mmmmmmmmm 2 very opposing opinions, this is going to make my decision very hard. so is your fuel economy pretty good compared to the standard ecu? and how are cold starts etc? if you can tell me any things that make the microtech more appealing over the power fc please tell me!

On an oooold microtech of mine the cold start was perfect. This is the hardest part of tuning an aftermarket ECU as you only get one shot at it every day and it could get costly. The advantage of the PFC is that it retains the same factory settings for cold start etc and that makes tuning alot easier.

It's been said a number of times, but I'll reiterate: an ECU is only as good as it's tuner.

You know the best way to chose an ECU?

Find a tuner that you trust, and ask them. If you find a tuner and go, tune this, and they have never used it before, they will obviously give it a go, but it probably wont be as good. And you have to trust the tuner, its a bit like a doctor, you wouldnt go back if he gave you panadol and a slap on the back if you broke your hip in 3 places.

Thats what I think anyway. Also it seems most people are using the PFC as its a plug and play pretty much, from memory wolf, haltech, etc all do plug in's now too.

I have the LT12 in my R33 and wouldnt go back. The reason I chose this one is my tuner reccommended it and knows them really well. I get 9-10km per litre but the cold start was a little bit hard to get right at first, but an air temp sensor sorted that, now its good. Its much of a muchness find a good tuner and ask what he wants to tune.

ye its a 32 so the cheapest i've found it $1380 and the microtech i can get is $1000 and both come with a hand controller. i think i will go the power fc becuse the tuner i want to use prefers power fc's!

I have a lt12s microtech in my R33 gtst and i am extremely happy with mine.......they actually cost more than the power fc's and make more power....

The power fc's still use the afm where as the lt12s dont use one at all...it is replaced with a bit of fabricated piping, so is less restrictive.

It also has more tuneability than a power fc.

I gained 50rwkw from installing the microtech but knowing a good tuner that knows microtechs helps. My car had 160 rwkw and after installing the microtech i got 209.1rwkw at 12psi with the stock turbo!!!

I have no problems with coldstarts as i had an air sensor installed at the same time.

I know a guy that installed a power fc in his R33 gtst and has got a high flowed turbo and only has 211 rwkw at 15psi and before he had about 180rwkw...... a gain of only 31rwkw.

The extra money for the microtech is definatly worth it..

Edited by lismo
I have a lt12s microtech in my R33 gtst and i am extremely happy with mine.......they actually cost more than the power fc's and make more power....

The power fc's still use the afm where as the lt12s dont use one at all...it is replaced with a bit of  fabricated piping, so is less restrictive.

It also has more tuneability than a power fc.

I gained 50rwkw from installing the microtech but knowing a good tuner that knows microtechs helps. My car had 160 rwkw and after installing the microtech i got 209.1rwkw at 12psi with the stock turbo!!!

I have no problems with coldstarts as i had an air sensor installed at the same time.

I know a guy that installed a power fc in his R33 gtst and has got a high flowed turbo and only has 211 rwkw at 15psi and before he had about 180rwkw...... a gain of only 31rwkw.

The extra money for the microtech is definatly worth it..

Hahahaha....

That is one of the more stupid things I've heard. I'm not sure if you are serious or are an aspiring stand-up comic genius!

You'd be good at the latter.

Mate, ECU's do NOT make power. The tuning of an ECU does that. If you have say, 2 x 200HP cars. Both identical. If you install a Microtech to one and a P-FC to the other, neither will make more power than each other. I'm sure good P-FC tuners will be able to tune an ECU to make the same power as a similiar car with a Microtech. Also, you may of had such a large gain, but the person you stated that only had the 31rwkw gain with the P-FC probably got much better economy and ran a safer tune.

I would go the P-FC, simply because most tuners are more familiar with them when it comes to Nissan performance cars. Another advantage of the P-FC is the knock sensor, could come in handy one day, y'know...

Anyway, I hope you make a good choice, no matter what ECU you choose. Good luck

To NISMO

Im glad you find it so funny!!!

My car is absoulutly fine, never had problem with it and i dont find it any less economical than before the install of the microtech.....and yes it obviously produces more power as i found a very good microtech tuner.....

Its just my opinion as every one is entilted to one...and i do think that microtechs are definatly better than a pfc...

To RB MAN

If your in Brissy i know of a good microtech tuner and he isnt as expensive as most tuners.....pm me for details if your interested..

Another vote for going with the tuners choice.

My tuner (P.I.T.S) said PowerFC or Wolf3d. I tried the Wolf and am extrememly happy as the tune is perfect. Everyone who's been in my car has commented on how well it runs for a moderately modded Skyline. Since the tune and running 16psi I have never heard it backfire at all or splutter even once at high revs. This however, is due to a good tune, not a good chip. I'm sure I would have had the same results with a PowerFC.

It's all about the tune!

Mate, ECU's do NOT make power. The tuning of an ECU does that. If you have say, 2 x 200HP cars. Both identical. If you install a Microtech to one and a P-FC to the other, neither will make more power than each other.

I hear what you are saying, but its not really true....is it??

The quality of the ignition and injector drivers surely make a difference. My old Microtech wasnt too strong in the ignition driver dept, as the thing would go up and down dependent on the load on the electrical system etc, headlights. wipers etc Also the processor speed with repsect to injectors etc surely makes a difference.

In the wash up it may not be a lot of difference, but i would be surprised if you put two ECUs on the same modded car, that they both would be able to handle the same amount ignition and boost and power wihtout having to wind fuel in and ignition out. Also certain ECUs can surely be tuned closer to the brink of detonation as they have finer control and control loops/channels etc

... I think. i repeat, think...im not saying you are wrong....but thats a few things i considered when looking at ECUs

I have a lt12s microtech in my R33 gtst and i am extremely happy with mine.......they actually cost more than the power fc's and make more power....

The power fc's still use the afm where as the lt12s dont use one at all...it is replaced with a bit of  fabricated piping, so is less restrictive.

It also has more tuneability than a power fc.

I gained 50rwkw from installing the microtech but knowing a good tuner that knows microtechs helps. My car had 160 rwkw and after installing the microtech i got 209.1rwkw at 12psi with the stock turbo!!!

I have no problems with coldstarts as i had an air sensor installed at the same time.

I know a guy that installed a power fc in his R33 gtst and has got a high flowed turbo and only has 211 rwkw at 15psi and before he had about 180rwkw...... a gain of only 31rwkw.

The extra money for the microtech is definatly worth it..

I got the same gains as you with an safc11 so have alot of other people, should we be claiming the safc is the superior managment??

Edited by otto

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...