Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just recently i put a new engine in my 32 it was an rb20 with bout 70,000 k and it was a weird idle in the mornin it will sit on bout 2,000rpm then when it gets warm it fluctuates between bout 1,100 and 2,000rpm a mate said it was a sensor and i hve replaced teh o2 sensor, throttle position sensor, water temp sensor, afm, and teh 1 under the throttle body and its still does it and its really startin to get to me ne help would be great thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84629-rb20-problem/
Share on other sites

I would take the aac valve off and spray it with degreaser then bath in petrol.... let is dry and put it back on.... Also take the throttle body breather pipe off and spray contact cleaner down the tube.... Maby even pull the hose from the throttle body and clean with contact cleaner... dont worry is flamable and will combust if you get some down the plenoium.... if none of this helps.... Then you need to look at consulting an auto electrican...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84629-rb20-problem/#findComment-1536452
Share on other sites

just recently i put a new engine in my 32 it was an rb20 with bout 70,000 k and it was a weird idle in the mornin it will sit on bout 2,000rpm then when it gets warm it fluctuates between bout 1,100 and 2,000rpm a mate said it was a sensor and i hve replaced teh o2 sensor, throttle position sensor, water temp sensor, afm, and teh 1 under the throttle body and its still does it and its really startin to get to me ne help would be great thanks

Have you adjusted the AAC valve? When the motor warms up remove the maroon plug from the AAC valve. Screw in the adjustment screw to set idle at 675rpm. If it screws all the way in and the revs are still above this then you have an inlet leak.

Is this "1 under the throttle body" you refer to the 'air regulator' that is mounted on the manifold runners below the throttle body.

It's job is to increase idle speed until the motor warms up.

I would have thought this a likely cause of the fast idle as these often stick open and allow too much air to bypass the throttle butterfly.

When it warms up try to pinch the hose going to it and see if the idle slows.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84629-rb20-problem/#findComment-1536516
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...