Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I orded a cooler kit off http://www.slidingperformance.com/

The pic of it all assembeled is the one off the website, the otther fotos are ones i took, and some people added speech bubles.

Im very impressed, delivery was quick, no complaints. Ill keep posting how i go tonight cutting up my front bar and making hole fdor the return pipe.

:lol:

post-14959-1124702627.jpg

post-14959-1124702665.jpg

post-14959-1124702704.jpg

Edited by sproosy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84956-got-my-cooler-kit-today/
Share on other sites

got teh pics in. teh cooler kit was $629 pipes and hybrid style copy cooler delivered.

i soughta f**ked it up a bit and mounted it slightly crooked, and in the fotos you can see my nicely scratched bar. But there is always tomorow to to fix up my slightly crooked cooler.

Over all it took me from about 11am until 5pm to pipe it up.

Last night i sat around with the dremel and cut the bar so the cooler could fit in. That took about 1 hour. And also 30 mins to mount the cooler.

Im sure lots of other people out there could do it quicker, but im a suit (white collar) and im not too good with this stuff sometimes as you can see by the crooked cooler. \\Next i have to do a dyno run with a little more boost and see what i get. From what i have read im hoping for 145 - 155rwkw.

Ill keep this thread updated.

post-14959-1124789608.jpg

post-14959-1124789671.jpg

post-14959-1124790149.jpg

Edited by sproosy
Awesome, trurly awesome.

I bought a Pizza last night, it was tasty - TASTY!

I cant get pizza's atm but if i can ship one in from Japan real quick you wanna buy one? :lol: rofl1yv.gif

Cheers Ryan

Edited by Slide

Well how long would it take you to do up 4 bolts? It didnt get all "wonked" until i connected the pipes up and the bar cause i f**ked up and knocked it and bent it when i lent agaisnt it. My bad!

Hence why i said "there is always tomorow"

Edited by sproosy
Well how long would it take you to up 4 bolts? It didnt get all "wonked" until i connected the pipes up and the bar.

Hence why i said "there is always  tomrow"

took me close to an hour to mount mine, to align the lengh in middle and the depth and to punch a groove to drill and so forth...

point is i would never be assed to take it off and do it again.

how did u knock it out of place?

Edited by silver gts-t
how did u knock it out of place?

i went to get up and i put my hand on it to pull myself up and i think thats when i did it. I check it all up and measured it and all that shit last night and it all looked good. i cant think of anything elses that would of made it move.

its up as high as it can go before i have to cut into the chasis which im not prepared to do. Ive got no problems with driveways and the like, the only thing that would be an issue would be the concrete blocks they put in parking spots so you dont drive too far forward, hence the scracthes already on the front bar.

Thanks for your concern.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...