Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sydneykid

How much would labour be you think roughly at any of your recommended install shops to install the front castor kit, front/rear camber kits and subframe alignment?

That's a tough question, every car is different. A full install including wheel alignment is an all day job for one person, with a little help from another occasionally. If the wheel alignment is tricky or if there are busted/rusted/stuck components, it may take a little longer. I would reckon around $400 to $500 should cover it, depending on the hourly rate of the workshop.

:P cheers :)

PS; I have recommended those workshops, not because of price, but because they know what they are doing with suspension.

  • Replies 714
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It is easy enough to do yourself with a friend on a hoist and then get proper wheel alignment done?

Did my swaybars and doing my new springs with friend soon also, wasent to hard.

Shocks, springs, stabiliser bars and rear subframe alignment kit are easy. You will need a spring compressor (~$25 from SupaCheap, AutoOne, AutoPro, AutoBarn etc).

Front caster bushes and front and rear camber bushes are not so easy. You need a 20 tonne press to remove the standard bushes (they can be very stubborn) and refit the Whiteline bushes (they slip in pretty easily). On my R32GTST they were rusted in and I had to burn the rubber out of front camber bushes and then cut the casing with a hack saw, bugger of a job. To keep the cost down you could remove the components from the car and take them to the workshop. Have them R&R the bushes and then fit them back into the car.

:P cheers :)

Hi Mark if you already have Kings low springs then the rest of the kit will suite OK.  I have designed the valving in the shocks with a window and the Kings low springs fit in that window.  Kings super lows don't.

If you don't already have springs, then the ones in the kit are the best.

:P cheers  :)

Hi Sydneykid,

I currently have stock springs, and will be after some lower springs in the near future. So am i able to just use the whiteline springs in the group buy to lower the car..will they fit on the standard shocks?

cheers.

Paradizzle.

How long wait is there on there parts from payment from whiteline.

Friend has press also

All items are in stock right now, but the Group Buy has taken off and I don't know how long the current stock will last. After that the max delay is 10 days.

;) cheers :)

Hi Sydneykid,

I currently have stock springs, and will be after some lower springs in the near future. So am i able to just use the whiteline springs in the group buy to lower the car..will they fit on the standard shocks?

cheers.

Paradizzle.

No problems, the Whiteline springs will fit the standard shocks. But honestly the standard shocks are simply not up to it. Even when new they don't control the standard springs very well, and they aren't new any more. Plus you are asking them to control a higher spring rate at a lower ride height.

You have to remove the shocks to fit the springs, so you save nothing in labour by doing the springs on their own. Then if you find you don't like it, you can to pay again to have the shocks removed and replaced.

Bottom line, it's your call but it is not something I would recommend.

;) cheers :)

hey ive just got a quick question..

trying to work out how much its going to cost me / what i need to order from you.. i've got no clue about suspension stuff..

but with the stabliser bars.. do i just select 1 type which i would like to purchase ? either fixed or adjustable ??

with everything else in the list do i pretty much just buy 1 x item ??

im looking to get the full kit your offering basicaly.

thanks heaps

For the guys that are ordering the Bump Stop and Dust cover kit. You will have to trim the bump stops to suite the correct height that you are going to have your car set at. The dust cover clips ove the end of the bump stop stop so you have to trim the other end with a knife, be careful it is easy to slip and cut yourself.

This is a picture of what the bump stop and dust cover assembled would look like at higher than standard height;

Bump_Stop_Dust_Cover_Small.jpg

This is how much much to trim off the bump stop, shown next to a standard Skyline bump stop. The orange line is for standard height, the red line is for ~350 mm centre of wheel to guard and the yellow line is for ~330 mm centre of wheel to guard.

Bump_Stop_Comparison_With_Heights_Small.jpg

Note that standard height is 2 circlip grooves up from the standard circlip groove, ~350 mm is the standard circlip groove and 330 mm is 2/3 circlip grooves down from the standard groove. You can pick the standard groove as it has a yellow stripe accros it. Plus the circlip should be in that groove when you get the shocks.

If you are using the standard bump stops they also have to be trimmed if you are going lower than standard height. Not that you have to trim the thick part of the standard bump stop, not just cut off the little lump on the bottom. You will need a hack saw as the rubber is very tough. The red line (no trimming) is for standard height, the yellow line is for ~350 mm centre of wheel to guard and the orange line is for ~330 mm centre of wheel to guard.

Bump_Stop_Standard_Triming_Small.jpg

Hope that was of some help, if you have any questions please post them up here as it may answer other peoples queries as well

:D cheers ;)

Edited by Sydneykid
hey ive just got a quick question..

trying to work out how much its going to cost me / what i need to order from you.. i've got no clue about suspension stuff..

but with the stabliser bars.. do i just select 1 type which i would like to purchase ? either fixed or adjustable ??

with everything else in the list do i pretty much just buy 1 x item ??

im looking to get the full kit your offering basicaly.

thanks heaps

Hi Justin, you've got it, just choose which items you want, note that you need 2 pairs of shocks and 2 pairs of springs. Following is a typical R33GTST kit with fixed rate stabiliser bars;

Front Springs $144.00

Rear Springs $144.00

Front Bilstein Shocks $485.00

Rear Bilstein Shocks $485.00

Front stabiliser bar $194.00

Rear stabiliser bar $194.00

Caster Kit $115.00

Front Camber kit $272.00

Rear Camber Kit $123.00

Rear Subframe alignment kit $105.00

Freight (over $500 order) $Zero

Sub Total $2,261.00

Less extra 5% $113.05

Total $2,147.95

If you don't intend to adjust the stabiliser bars to get the handling balance you want, then I recommend the fixed rate bars. Just put them on and drive away, I have chosen them so that they suite a wide range of applications and conditions.

:D cheers ;)

Edited by Sydneykid
Sydneykid what camber,toe and castor settings do you recommend on the track with the whiteline handling kit, custom made (stiffer) springs and blistein shocks but with 18 inch street tyres?

As much caster as you can get, keep pulling it on until the front of the wheels rub on the inner guards, then back it off a bit. Should be 7 degrees positive at least, you can never have too much caster.

Front camber at least 2.5 degrees negative, maybe as much as 3.5 degrees negative depending on how high the spring rate and bar rate is. Use the pyrometer to tell you how much it needs. If you don't have a pyrometer, then have a look at the tyres after a few laps, they will tell you whether there is too much or not enough camber.

Rear camber, 1.5 degrees negative, but again it depends on the springs and bar rates and to a lesser extent how much anti squat geometry you are running. Once again use the pyrometer to tell you how much it needs.

:P cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
what about front/rear toe?

Should the tyre be the same temp inside and outside when adjusting the cambers?

Toe is as per the thread, Zero on the front and 2mm in on each side at the rear. If it understeers, add a little toe out to the front. If it power oversteers on corner exit add a little more rear toe in. If it is reluctant to head for the apex on intial turn in (and it isn't power oversteering on corner exit) then you can try a liitle toe out on the rear.

Yep, you are aiming for consistent temperatures across the tread.

:P cheers :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...