Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hiya sydneykid,this be my firsty ever SAU post.Just signed up.

Anywayz I have an R32 GTS4 which is currently suspended by Skippy the Bush Kangaroo on Acid.Not my choice.Was like that when I bought it a week ago.

Sooo,what I want to know is can you supply a kit to sort this evil critter out.I want everything and I want it now.What do you recommend.The car is for road use.Will be contacting GTRgeoff for one of his HICAS lock bars.I intend to do it all once and do it right before I spend all my money misbehaving.Also if you can recommend a workshop in SE Qld that would be great.

PM on its way

:P cheers :P

  • Replies 714
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Ok, so I've finally found the right thread to post in... SOrry about this... I'll learn to read a little more before posting.

hey sk...

My JIC coilovers are rattling and looks like they need a rebuild. I need to get rid of them I think. Mackay has really shitty roads, but I like a low car. Is there a setup possible for this? I like my car at a weird height - the Front slightly lower then the back (looks meaner I think heh)

Anyway, for the moment I just want to replace the coilovers because the cash storage isn't that great at the moment. Its a 1996 GTS-T so it hasn't worn many of the parts out just yet.. (pedders checked)

What would you suggest? I attached a few pics of the car to give you some idea of the height.

The measurements at the moment are (from center of wheel to edge of guard)

Back - 335mm

Front - 320mm

Hope I'm not being a pain in the ass.

What will I need?

post-7271-1161050603.jpg

post-7271-1161050613.jpg

post-7271-1161050621.jpg

Ok, so I've finally found the right thread to post in... SOrry about this... I'll learn to read a little more before posting.

hey sk...

My JIC coilovers are rattling and looks like they need a rebuild. I need to get rid of them I think. Mackay has really shitty roads, but I like a low car. Is there a setup possible for this? I like my car at a weird height - the Front slightly lower then the back (looks meaner I think heh)

Anyway, for the moment I just want to replace the coilovers because the cash storage isn't that great at the moment. Its a 1996 GTS-T so it hasn't worn many of the parts out just yet.. (pedders checked)

What would you suggest? I attached a few pics of the car to give you some idea of the height.

The measurements at the moment are (from center of wheel to edge of guard)

Back - 335mm

Front - 320mm

Hope I'm not being a pain in the ass.

What will I need?

hey sk, are you able to help.. Sorry if I'm being pushy.

hey sk, are you able to help.. Sorry if I'm being pushy.

PM sent

:thumbsup: cheers :no:

PS, sorry for the delay, people who send PM's get answered first, questions in posts come second.

Edited by Sydneykid
PM sent

:laugh: cheers :woot:

PS, sorry for the delay, people who send PM's get answered first, questions in posts come second.

thats cool.

Hey, do you have a recommended Height setup between front and back?

For example, my front and back heights are 15mm different (back is higher), could this cause issues with types of driving eg. Dragstrip, and daily driving?

Front Castor Kits. Are they adjustable or preset at 7 deg?? Will they only work with the Bilsteins or can they be used in conjunction with stock or other coilovers?

thats cool.

Hey, do you have a recommended Height setup between front and back?

For example, my front and back heights are 15mm different (back is higher), could this cause issues with types of driving eg. Dragstrip, and daily driving?

Gidday Mafia, this is Garys recommended settings which you can get with this kit

For the street here are my recommended settings;

Front Camber -1.00

Front Caster +7.00 (slightly more on the left to offset the drift to the gutter)

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.5

Rear Toe 2.00 mm in on each side

For the track;

Front Camber -2.50

Front Caster +7.00 (or more if you can get it)

Front Toe 2 mm out each side

Rear Camber -1.25

Rear Toe 2.00 mm in on each side

As you can see the big change is camber, what most the guys do (me included) is to use the Whiteline camber kits to adjust the camber when they have the car jacked up to put the track tyres on. Just get the wheel aligner to mark the amount of rotation you need for the 2 settings. Then you simply rotate the offset bush for the right amount (track or road).

The Group Buy Bilsteins have additional circlip grooves added so you can set the height you want before you fit them. There are 6 grooves 8 mm apart and I can tell you the height that you will get from each groove. Keep in mind that GTSTs handle best around 350 mm front and 340 mm rear (centre of wheel to guard).

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...