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  • 1 month later...
Will the suspension specs applies for a 260rs? If not how much for the different type or model tohe the springs and shock absobers? Thanks

Rear shock lower mounts are different (the fork style same as R33GTR, R34GTR and R34GTT) otherwise everything else is the same.

:) cheers :P

  • 1 month later...
Gary

What are your F & R spring rates in kg's for the Stagea

(or are these a secert)

Thanks

20-25% more than standard. The tricks are in the Bilsteins, not the springs.

:( cheers :D

  • 2 weeks later...

HiSk,

got my car out on friday which is good. Borught it in for aligment and the drivers side was like 1.75 and passenger side was like 2.25. my car is sitting at 350mm front and back. They had trouble matching the camber to be the same on both side. AAny theories? Do i need the camber adjuster? I thought its a bit weird that they are not able to aligend to the exact same camber. but they came preety close/ Let me know,

Ohh BTW the brand of the suspension is JECS. let me know

  • 3 weeks later...
There are a limited number of Stagea spec front shocks in stock at Bilstein, so if you are interested please don't hesitate. They won't last.

>_< cheers :D

Hi SK

1st of all, thanks for all the amazing info you have posted over the last couple of years for Stagea owners.

I have been the lucky owner of a StageaRS4 S2 1998 for the last 8 months and have been bouncing around on some horrible springs(Tein) with what I think are standard shocks.

I finally have some spending money & was hoping that your group buy for Stagea suspension is still available.

I"m basically looking for the works, as my last car was a Bilstein fitted R33GTST and I need to get back some of the feel and gorgeous handling that car gave me.

Thanks again :)

Hi SK

1st of all, thanks for all the amazing info you have posted over the last couple of years for Stagea owners.

I have been the lucky owner of a StageaRS4 S2 1998 for the last 8 months and have been bouncing around on some horrible springs(Tein) with what I think are standard shocks.

I finally have some spending money & was hoping that your group buy for Stagea suspension is still available.

I"m basically looking for the works, as my last car was a Bilstein fitted R33GTST and I need to get back some of the feel and gorgeous handling that car gave me.

Thanks again :huh:

PM sent

:rofl: cheers :)

sorry to post this in this thread SK but ive heard nothing from you about the swaybar i paid for, or even a replies to the PMs i have sent you since. Dont know how often you check your PMs.

Thanks.

sorry to post this in this thread SK but ive heard nothing from you about the swaybar i paid for, or even a replies to the PMs i have sent you since. Dont know how often you check your PMs.

Thanks.

Several PM's sent, I know I lost a few when Prank was doing the update. Another PM sent, please let me know if you haven't received it.

:huh: cheers :)

PS; the Pulsar stabiliser bar has been ordered from Whiteline, should be ready very soon.

i appreciate that, mate. Still havent received a PM, must be an issue somewhere.

Thanks again. The buyer of the swaybar (obviously its not for me) was getting a bit worried is all. Cheers

Hey there, it's 1inthefront here. I would like to buy my husband - 3intheback - a rear swaybar for the S2 for his 40th birthday in October.

Is the group buy still on? I cant quite afford front and rear bars, but it seems that to replace the rear is the best place to start.

Thanks for your help, this will put a big smile on his face and also to minimise the impact of hitting 40!

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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