Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys just seeking some help on my car at the moment its a r34 gtt, today when i tried to start it, the engine was running on 5 cyl's only and the engine, slip, and tcs off light all came on and stayed on any help appreciated, is there a self test to retreive trouble codes how do i do it?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86053-r34-trouble-codes/
Share on other sites

Pull out the consult connect that is under the dash on the driver side of the steering column.

Look on the back of the connector and find 2 wires on their own in one corner.

Turn the car to (I think) accessory.

Get a paper clip and short out these 2 wires.

Watch the check engine light for flashes.

I think the first number of the code is long flashes and the second number is quick flashes.

5-5 means end of codes.

2-1 = flaaaaaaaash flaaaaaaash flash

if you get a 21, then it is something with your ignition. Most likely coilpack has died.

Ha, apparently all 34GTt does that, my mate's car does that every freaking time as well. Got PFC, tuned by Melb top tuner and still. Mind you nothing wrong with the performance, everytime it does that thing we just rev the shit out of it and it fix itself LOL.

Maybe should consider Slitfire system.

It will blow a bit of black smoke cos ' stock ECU trigger alarming so shit load of fuel goes through.

We now had PFC installed and the fcuking thing still happening, if it was really a coil pack then it'll goes to that safemode ( TCS and shits lights up ) for good, why it only come on once in a while?

i wouldn't be driving it mate the car felt pretty fcked and rough when it was happening. As for revving the car till it owrks i wouldn't be doing that either.

Id garage the car till you get it fixed.

but serioulsy when my car was doing the exact same thing it was just a coil i changed it and it worked fine!!!

It will blow a bit of black smoke cos ' stock ECU trigger alarming so shit load of fuel goes through.

We now had PFC installed and the fcuking thing still happening, if it was really a coil pack then it'll goes to that safemode ( TCS and shits lights up ) for good, why it only come on once in  a while?

You're talking out of your ass mate.

The car is over fueling because the coilpack isn't working.

Thus the sparkplug is not firing so the unburnt fuel goes out the exhaust.

It still happens with the PFC because the coilpack is dead.

If you don't know what you're talking about or are uncertain, please don't spread it around like it's factual.

Why does it only come up once in a while?

Because they get faulty when it's hot, run them like that long enough and the coilpack will not work even on cold starts.

You're talking out of your ass mate.

The car is over fueling because the coilpack isn't working.

Thus the sparkplug is not firing so the unburnt fuel goes out the exhaust.

It still happens with the PFC because the coilpack is dead.

If you don't know what you're talking about or are uncertain, please don't spread it around like it's factual.

Why does it only come up once in a while?

Because they get faulty when it's hot, run them like that long enough and the coilpack will not work even on cold starts.

Wow wow wow, relax man, if i'm wrong then Hit me with your knowlege don't listen to my ass and get agro.

west i am with ed

what you have said sounds really stupid thats all.  

Its like saying my kid is sick so i will beat it until it gets better.

mad34

my kid is sick, ive beatn her so much shes bleeding from her eyes and she's still sick?

Should i keep going?

Edited by Driver

i had a similar problem with mine except car was running fine, the check engine light came on intermittently and when i revved the car a little it would go away. Brought it in to my mech who had a consult machine and found out it was a faulty O2 sensor. replaced tht and fixed the problem. I believe tht would be West's problem as the O2 sensor on the 34 have been known to play up. But if your car is running like shit and misfiring etc........then I would suspect the coilpacks. Nevertheless bring it in to a mechanic...most mechanics have the scan tool nowadays...good luck!

i had a similar problem with mine except car was running fine, the check engine light came on intermittently and when i revved the car a little it would go away.  Brought it in to my mech who had a consult machine and found out it was a faulty O2 sensor.  replaced tht and fixed the problem.  I believe tht would be West's problem as the O2 sensor on the 34 have been known to play up.  But if your car is running like shit and misfiring etc........then I would suspect the coilpacks.  Nevertheless bring it in to a mechanic...most mechanics have the scan tool nowadays...good luck!

Well guess what, today and now that i remember most of other days as well on me mate R34, that stupid thing HAPPENED when the car is COLD so tell me, when the car is cold, the coil pack is HOT? :lol: :lol:

Well thanks all for the help, i got a replacement coil pack on thursday ( thanks ed ) and have been driving the car alot since then and no signs of any trouble at all, so fingers crossed the rest of the coil packs can hold out till i can get some splitfires cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...