Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I hope I better my previous PB of 15sec flat!... (stock)

...well I should as my car has another 80rwkw and 100mm more rubber under the bum...

anyone else going down for a run tonight? if you see a silver R33 gtst with AVS 5 spokes and a really loud gunmetal R33 gtst with Nismo rims come say hi!

we will be the unshaved suss looking characters wearing 4 jumpers and beanies... oh wait that describes everyone there! ... hope its not too bloody cold... good for the car, bad for me :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86241-calder-tonight-2905/
Share on other sites

Yeah ill be heading down, not Skyline affiliated though!

My brother has a Blue HQ with a big F**K off engine in it... She doesnt look real pretty at the moment (body wise) but she should run a mid 11 tonight and he can pull a mean skid aswell - he has won the burnout comp quite a few times.

Soon the engine will be coming out in favour of a forced induction Chev with a big HP nitros setup. And we are also painting the car VB can green with an ice pearl over the top.... should look the goods.

I will be cruising around wearing a HSV jacket so if you see me aswell please say'hello.

Good luck Nick. Hope all goes well for you mate... See you tonight

ha ha its real hard lining up against some of those old school V8's and rotors that run 11's... can't even hear my car! a couple of times I have reached for the ignition only to discover its already on! staging and then waiting for those big loud bastards to take off so I can concentrate on my launch!

... hey is there a better way to block off the coolant overflow bottle without just tying a knot in the rubber piping?... I lost a lot of coolant last time...

for those big loud bastards to take off so I can concentrate on my launch!

...  hey is there a better way to block off the coolant overflow bottle without just tying a knot in the rubber piping?... I lost a lot of coolant last time...

when i went to the drags (heathcote with a ford club) they had to put a coke bottle in there for the overflow, so that the coolant didnt drip on the track....if thats what ur talking about

Well thanks for the "early" notice :P

Here i am, at home, waiting for my mate to finish working at Calder, when i could have been there, having a few runs with you guys :) .

Lately i have been considering taking it down, to see how much of an improvemnt the car has made since last time. Now i will have to wait another month b4 i can test it, as it is getting a few more performance tweaks.

ohh well, have a great night and post up your results.

Al

its ok Al... i think its about time another SAU drag day was held... hasnt been one for like...

FOREVER!!

man i still had my 32 back then and it was stock!

maybe wait til my new skyrines here so i can feel like one of the family again :P

just got back... and my ears are still ringing from all those big cube engines with no exhaust!

best was:

13.75 @ 103mph with a 60 foot of 2.2sec

getting some axle tramp, found it hooked up best with gradually feeding the throttle in after launching at 3000rpm... would have like to get a better 60ft time but oh well its still a pretty good time for stock turbo and ecu

time for beer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...