Squeaky Brakes

[danh]

hey all

i just got new pads and rotors.

DBA slotted rotors and bendix ultimate pads

had them in for 2 days and they are squeaking like a ****

any one have experience with these pads?

are they squeaky by nature?

cheers

dan

[95SKY]

hey all

i just got new pads and rotors.

DBA slotted rotors and bendix ultimate pads

had them in for 2 days and they are squeaking like a ****

any one have experience with these pads?

are they squeaky by nature?

cheers

dan

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeh i had the same problem with ultimate pads the rears were fine it was just the fronts making a hell of a noise i took it back to the mechanic bout 3 times and they couldn fix it, they tried everything hey but still made noise so i took them off in the end and put on a cheaper pad that were a bit softer didnt have a problem after that, but the ultimates felt great while they were on there just a shame they were so noisy. I even rang bendix at the time and asked them for help and tried what they said to do but still no go.

[danh]

hmmm, well that doesnt sound too promising..

well i called the mechanic and had a look over the rotors.

turns out i may have glazed the rotors by long, slow and light braking to stop at traffic lights etc causing them to glaze and squeal.

so i'm gonna go out tonight and see if i can lift that with some firm braking.. will report later!

dan

[LANFOH]

Bendix ultimates are excellent pads for stopping however they do tend to squeak alot simply because of the materials they are made from, not the way they are fitted.

[danh]

tried to wipe off the glaze with some hard braking, seemed to work for a while but came back...

its not a soft ee..eee.eee squeak, like when they need to be replaced,

actually it doesnt make that sort of noise at all, i wouldnt mind that noise as much. its more of a loud ear piercing EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP just before the car stops completely. apart from that theyre quiet!

its so loud and annoying it sounds like a old banged up truck!

is this normal?

[GTR032]

Mine does the same thing..

Start of this year I had my 4000 series rotors machined, and new ultimate pads installed. After about 200km's they started squeeling. Took them back to brake place who did the machining and see what they could do, they tried other pads and still squeeked. Went back several times and never got totally fixed. I put up with the noise for a while then I went out and got a set of new rotors and RB74 pads. Bed them in as told and they do slighty squeel when just coming to a stop. I just live with it now weird thing.

The rotors I had machined earlier this year, when new I installed them in my car with new ultimate pads in late 2003 and did a track day with them 2 days after putting them in..never ever squeeled or squeeked and stopped fantasticly. My only qualm was the high amount of brake dust..

Cheers

Jono

[danh]

GTR032

so what your saying is the ultimates basically need a few laps of a track to bed properly then theyre quiet after that?

mine still squeak, they stop fantastically and lock up nicely but yeh its just that final 1m of stopping that they let out an almighty scream thats driving me nuts!

dan

[GTR032]

GTR032

so what your saying is the ultimates basically need a few laps of a track to bed properly then theyre quiet after that?

mine still squeak, they stop fantastically and lock up nicely but yeh its just that final 1m of stopping that they let out an almighty scream thats driving me nuts!

dan

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Well i dont know for sure but its the only difference between when i changed discs n pads both times..

[gts4diehard]

I had ultimates on my r32, they squeaked quite a bit. After I put in my RDa rotors they stopped squeaking. They used to squeak under light braking, ok under heavy braking. I think that bedding them in properly helped.

The rda rotors had a bedding in guide, e.g. high performance pads - 3 sets of 10 of medium braking from 80 km/hr to 20 km/hr with a cool down period in between each set. This deposits a layer of pad material onto the rotor assisting braking. They also said that if you drive around a lot doing only light braking that this layer gets removed and you need to do the bedding in again.

here is the tech doc...quite interesting

Technical Bulletin – 2004/5 – #5

Rotors & Drums Australia Pty Ltd

EBC Brakes Australia Pty Ltd

BEDDING IN OF PADS AND ROTORS

When a vehicle has had both new rotors and new pads fitted there are two processes or objectives to

getting the brake system to operate at optimal performance.

Step 1 is heating the brake rotor and pads to transfer the pad material evenly onto the rotor face.

Step 2 is maturing or cooking the pad to ensure that gasses are burnt out of the pad material and that

resins in the pad material bind together.

Step 1 & 2 involves performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad are heated steadily, to

allow the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. The friction surface should be

clear of all oils which are used to stop the rotor from rusting before being fitted to the motor vehicle.

Whilst these will be burnt off, they risk transferring and possibly polluting the brake pad material and

will definitely lead to a longer bedding in process. Whilst performing a series of brake applications to

transfer the pad material, care should be taken to not come to a complete stop, as this can lead to the

transfer of pad material unevenly on the disc at the point where the pad comes to rest on the friction

surface.

A typical program of ten brake applications from 80km down to 20km p/hour without any cool down in

between would be sufficient. If it is noticeable that after 5-6 applications that the performance drops

away, this means the resins and gasses have yet to be burnt or compressed, out of the pad material.

For performance pad materials, a further two sequences of ten stops will be required after a cooling

down period between each cycle, to ensure that the pads have reached the required higher operating

temperature to allow for the pad material to transfer effectively.

At all times during the bedding in process, care should be taken to not apply the brakes in a harsh

manner or decelerate from high speeds, as this will corrupt the transfer of materials and lead to uneven

material build up on the rotor surface, which in most instances will require machining to regain a flat

rotor surface for optimal operation (Disc thickness vibration-DTV-which leads to brake judder or

vibration-see RDA/EBC Bulletin #5).

How will I know if they are bedded in?

The two major visual indicators are disc rotor discoloration and machining marks on the friction surface

of the disc rotor.

1) Disc rotor should have a slight bluish tint with a grey tint that indicates where the brake pads have

come into contact with the rotor. Too much heat will cause the rotor face to be extremely blue and

has been overcooked in the bedding in process.

2) If there is still a shine on the rotor surface, then not enough pad material, has been transferred.

Once brakes have been bedded in, it is also important, to keep them that way. If any brake pad is used

below its adherent operating temperature over a period of time it will slowly remove the transfer layer

on the rotor surface. Standard and especially performance pads like to be driven a little more

aggressively every now and then to maintain this pad material on the rotor friction surface. Similar in

effect to taking a city based car on a country run every now and then and noticing the change in the

exhaust tail pipe color, go from black to grey as it operates at a different temperature, to what it has

become accustomed. Passive use of brakes over an extended period of time will in effect lead to

“unbedded brakes”.

[Cubes]

I ran Ultimates with DBA rotors.

Never squeeled but I did give them a little more than the recommended bedding in procedure. Lots of repeated 100km/h stops, no time to cool inbetween.

One question.. Did the people who did the work remove the anti-squeel shims from the old pads and put them on the new?

When pads are dirty and dusty its easy to forget and simply throw them aside.

[Maxx]

used to have them on my old s13, squeel like hell and the most dusty pad i ever use

[someonestolecc]

One question.. Did the people who did the work remove the anti-squeel shims from the old pads and put them on the new?

When pads are dirty and dusty its easy to forget and simply throw them aside.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I lost my shims. Can I just make my own aluminium sheet thing and use some sort of high temp glue to stick them on the pad to stop it from moving around in there?

Mine squeel like crazy, sometimes if I put the car into reverse a little and use the brakes I hear a click, as if the pad is resetting itself into the caliper. I assume this is half the problem.

I'm also hoping to fix the squeek I seem to get every 1 revolution from the rear brakes (I'm hoping it's not a warped rotor).

[TokyoTaxi]

I don't think this is just an "Bendix Ultimates" issue.

I'm currently running Winmax pads with Zeal Straight Six rotors and they squeel like a stuck pig !! I got my hands on a full set of Nismo pads and they did exactly the same thing so I then went and got the discs machined to eliminate them as a cause and with both sets of pads ( around 100km use on the machined discs with each set of pads ) I still got the squeeling problem.

I then pulled the calipers & disc rotors off, swapped the direction of the rotors, cleaned the pad running area of the calipers, cleaned the shims and cleaned the pads ( including roughing the pad friction area ) and guess what It still squeels !!

I'm now going to pull it all apart again and try some copper grease in all the suspect areas. After that, I'm out of ideas.

One thing I will say ( I'm not saying this is the answer ) is that when I had the EBC Greenstuff pads and EBC Turbogroove rotors fitted I never got any noise and almost no dust !!

[Cubes]

Have any of you tried the PBR anti squeel glue stuff.

It comes in a small black tube, I use this also. I forget to mention.

[TokyoTaxi]

That stuff works "instead of" shims, yeah ??

[Beer Baron]

can also just use some never cease grease or soemthing like that on the backs of the pads.

[xRHETTx]

Everyone complaining of squeeling brakes, did you bed the pads in when you fitted them? If you changed rotors, did you bed them in again then?

Ive got RB74 up front, after bedding them in they havent squeeled since, until i had my rotors changed. After doing the bedding in proceedure again all was fine.

[TokyoTaxi]

Everyone complaining of squeeling brakes, did you bed the pads in when you fitted them? If you changed rotors, did you bed them in again then?

Ive got RB74 up front, after bedding them in they havent squeeled since, until i had my rotors changed. After doing the bedding in proceedure again all was fine.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I tried doing the bedding in last night ( 10 times from 80 to 20 ) but it didn't seem to fix the problem for long so I'll have to try the version for race pads and see how that goes. In the past, I've mostly did my "bedding in" on the track. Will post results. Cheers.

[danh]

i have tried doing the 1 set of 10 stops 80-20

-didnt work

i have tried doing the 3 sets of 10 stops 80-20

- didn't work either.

now almost a week after getting the brakes installed the squeeking is unbarable and i'm having another mechanic have a look at them today...

[Abo Bob]

Track days always fix my squealing. I have lost my rear shims though. I tried putting two thicknesses of aluminium can in there instead but that didn't work.

My rears have been squealing for ages now but I've had no track days for ages either. Tomorrow I will pull the pads out, lightly sand them to deglaze them, then put them back in and bed them good and proper. Sunday I'm going to the track.

I will report back on monday.