Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

where are the best places to go in the sydney/city area for wheel alignment?

most bob jane/bridgestone/jaxx etc dont know what our hicas is,and think they can charge extra because its a skyline....

any personal reccomendations welcome...ive been putting it off too long. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86550-where-to-go-in-sydney-area/
Share on other sites

where are the best places to go in the sydney/city area for wheel alignment?

most bob jane/bridgestone/jaxx etc dont know what our hicas is,and think they can charge extra because its a skyline....

any personal reccomendations welcome...ive been putting it off too long. :(

Heasmans - Sydenham

East Coast - Kirrawee

StGeorge Steering - Punchbowl

:) cheers :)

SK - have you had any experience with RoadHolder in Kirrawee?

I had my suspension bits installed there, and the guy seems to know what he's doing. Of course, I've got nothing to compare it to, but at least nothing fell off, rattled or squeaked afterwards.

Your local Bob Jane will have a laser aligning machine and there is no trick to aligning HICAS, they adjust the toe exactly the same as they do for the front steering rack.

But I recommend you decide on alignment settings and make sure they use them. Dont just accept what they will give you as they tend to set toe to match the camber on the tyres to minimise wear...which may not be the best for spirited driving

tynan tyres - kirrawee (138 bath road, up the road from just jap) 9545-8888 is to the main switch, ask for roni or daniel at tynan tyres (i don't work at tynan tyres so don't ask for me)

eat coast (near tynan tyres too) at the auto plaza

we (tynans) use laser aligning, i think it's around the $45-50 mark, can't remember, i'll check tomorrow (price is different for me so i can't remember)

so what would be the recommended settings for spirited driving in a gtr?

i think i'm up for an alignment next week, my steering wheel points to the right when i'm going straight...!

Caster = as much as you can get, if you have adjustable radius rods or adjustable bushes installed. Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Front Camber = 1 degree negative, if you have adjustable bushes installed. Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Front toe = zero, maybe a litttle toe out (2mm each side) of you want to decrease the understeer

Rear Camber = 0.5 degree negative, if you have adjustable bushes installed. Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Rear toe = zero, maybe a litttle toe in (2mm each side) of you want to decrease the power oversteer.

Hope that helps

:) cheers :)

Caster = as much as you can get, if you have adjustable radius rods or adjustable bushes installed.  Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Front Camber = 1 degree negative, if you have adjustable bushes installed.  Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Front toe = zero, maybe a litttle toe out (2mm each side) of you want to decrease the understeer

Rear Camber = 0.5 degree negative, if you have adjustable bushes installed.  Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Rear toe = zero, maybe a litttle toe in (2mm each side) of you want to decrease the power oversteer.

Hope that helps

:) cheers  :)

Awesome setup.

Are Caster and camber adjustable on a stock R33 GTS-T Type M ?

Caster = as much as you can get, if you have adjustable radius rods or adjustable bushes installed.  Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Front Camber = 1 degree negative, if you have adjustable bushes installed.  Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Front toe = zero, maybe a litttle toe out (2mm each side) of you want to decrease the understeer

Rear Camber = 0.5 degree negative, if you have adjustable bushes installed.  Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Rear toe = zero, maybe a litttle toe in (2mm each side) of you want to decrease the power oversteer.

Hope that helps

:) cheers  :)

awesome mate! thankyou!

dan

Caster = as much as you can get, if you have adjustable radius rods or adjustable bushes installed.  Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Front Camber = 1 degree negative, if you have adjustable bushes installed.  Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Front toe = zero, maybe a litttle toe out (2mm each side) of you want to decrease the understeer

Rear Camber = 0.5 degree negative, if you have adjustable bushes installed.  Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is.

Rear toe = zero, maybe a litttle toe in (2mm each side) of you want to decrease the power oversteer.

Hope that helps

:P cheers  :)

what about for a daily driven road car that gets punted occasionally but sees no track work? not keen to wear out the inner edges too fast given the mileage i do.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...