Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am interested in up grading my turbo! I know there is allot of skyline running round with these GT30r or the GT35r! I’m a big fan of this turbo but allot of people I have talked to that have them there not hitting boost until like 4800rpm and in a gtst you only basically have till 7000rpm! I want a turbo smaller than this that is capable of making 300rwkw if I want but something that will come on boost earlier and chop a skyline with a gt30r!

Any suggestions or info would be appreciated

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86817-turbo-questions/
Share on other sites

Grab a VG30 or similiar sized turbine housing, machine it up to suit a GT30 -12 CHRA with a .6 comp cover. + a set of cams and you will get very very close to 300rwkw. That should come on hard just before 4k.

The only way to really drop spool times more is to drop the head on a rb30 block.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86817-turbo-questions/#findComment-1568669
Share on other sites

I personally think that what you're requesting is stupid.

quick option - NOS

the only way to spin up a big turbo quickly is to have more exhaust gases.

to do this, apart from Nitrous, you need more capacity.

Sure cams will help and timing and tuning and the hey and the hoe..

but using a 3L bottom end as discussed in the 137 page thread up there (points to the top of the forum), you will be able to spin up this turbo with ease.

but you don't seem to have a proper goal in mind.

you jump from 300rwkw to beating an RB25 with the same turbo to having no lag..

so there's probably no helping ya..

Edited by GTST
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86817-turbo-questions/#findComment-1569085
Share on other sites

the current mods i have are turbo back 3.5inch exhaust, fmic, avcr, Gtr fuel pump and a fully rebuilt engine with forged internals could go into detail about the rebuild but wont and my 555cc and pfc are on the way! yer i just want a good turbo and come's on boost early and produce round the 300rwkw! price is not an issue!

Edited by al_r33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86817-turbo-questions/#findComment-1569218
Share on other sites

price not an issue?

ok do an rb30 bottom end

change and 740cc injectors

change to gt35r

get a suitable external wastegate

get a suitable manifold

4" exhaust

get some suspension work done probably a complete whileline works kit

get some 265 tyres or semi slicks

change to 040 fuel pump

probably want to look at fuel rail too

youll need a bigger airflow meter probably q45

your clutch will get fried as well so change clutch

probably want a good cold air intake with such a larger amount of air coming into the system

dont rev to 7000rpm with the rb30 bottom end more realistic would be 6000rpm as it wont make any more power and will have issues with the harmonic balancer

i am by no means an expert (far from it actually) so you would be better to speak to a tuner and work out a realistic goal

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86817-turbo-questions/#findComment-1569558
Share on other sites

Actually there is a couple of options in the GT30 turbine based range , just maybe not common or cheap .

There is a version of the HKS GT3037 which has a 52 trim compressor rather than the 56 trim comp version which is the same as the GT30R . The 52 trim version comes with a .50 ARR non port shrouded comp cover (housing) instead of the 56 trims .60ARR port shrouded comp cover .

52 trim CHRA no 700177-0006 , turbo no 700382-0009 or -0010

56 trim CHRA no 700177-0007 , turbo no 700382-0011 or -0012

Second option is the propper GT30 turbine version of the GT3071R CHRA no

700177-0023 . This uses the 56 trim GT35 71.1mm comp and has the same compressor flow capacity as the 48 trim version of the HKS GT3037 but with higher efficiency and less innertia to accelerate . The GT37 compressors in 3037's (48/52/56T) and GT30R (56T) are 76mm .

So two options , the 3037 52 trim and the GT3071R generally use the same type of comp cover so appear the same externally .

Your call , cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86817-turbo-questions/#findComment-1569798
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...