Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not sure how you could find out...

Quickest unopened rb20 ive seen in the flesh wasnt in a r32, but rather in a mates 260z.

It does mid 12 sec passes with nothing more than intake/exhaust, bigger turbo & chipped ecu.

But I too would be interested to know what the quickest 32 with rb20 does.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87736-fastest-r32/#findComment-1585251
Share on other sites

I want to see of them pull times before judging how fast they really are :blink:

I was trying to find reference for rb20 powered drag cars in japan. Best I could find was something that did low 11's. I am sure they must have got better than that over the years somewhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87736-fastest-r32/#findComment-1589790
Share on other sites

The fastest GTSt know of running an RB20DET in NZ was running standard internals and did around 12.1 with a huge turbo. There was a GTS4 running RB20DET that ran 11.8 but required NOS to get a launch without bogging.

I think HPI vol 1 or 2 shows a RB"24"DET GTSt doing a ten if I remember correctly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87736-fastest-r32/#findComment-1591027
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...