Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hmm NUR you say...

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/3954

aaaand...

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/3733

If you want to spend a smidget under 200k, we could just get you this one:

http://www.j-spec.com.au/clients/index.php?ID=1200hp_BNR34

or

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/3899

or

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/2504

but you know... you could always get one locally so you can test drive it first :wub:

It's an M Spec Nur = the pointless one.

GTR's aren't supposed to be a "luxuary" car. Soft suspension and leather seats - pffft!

Ahh you mean the ones with the ripple control suspension that hands the VSpec its ass on real roads, and Brit journalists that hated the V Spec GTR34 decided this was better than the TT Porsche Carrera 4 they were testing the same day by up to 20kmh through certain corners.........

Jap Hard suspension sucks. Compliance and control is the key.

I actually think it's a lot overpriced but give it another 2 years and stock M Specs will be about 60-70, then I'll buy.

Farking work proxy.

I get this shit

Warning: preg_match() [function.preg-match]: Unknown modifier 'n' in /home/jspecau/public_html/list/index.php on line 5

try it now n tell me if it works :)

ferrari is the winner for me

although i love my nissans and jap cars altogether a nissan is just another jap car but a ferrari is a ferrari its a totally different ball game

even our old 308 GTSi is still an awesome car 20 years on

damn straight it would be a smart cruiser. People dont buy ferraris to cane them. They are for Class.

But its just my opinion that i would prefer a ferrari over a nissan.

WHAT!? They aren't just for looks. When I buy my Ferrari, I will be caning it. After all, that is why they were built. :) But I wouldn't buy a Spyder anyway.

My best mate's brother in law has(had) a 360 and he absolutely canes the pants out of the thing. Unfortunately he recently crashed it.

If you want to spend a smidget under 200k, we could just get you this one:

http://www.j-spec.com.au/clients/index.php?ID=1200hp_BNR34

That is my ultimate GTR. When can you get it here? ;)

ferrari is the winner for me

although i love my nissans and jap cars altogether a nissan is just another jap car but a ferrari is a ferrari its a totally different ball game

spot on imo...id definitely take the ferrari

550 maranello....mmmmmmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...