Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its just cost me $630 just to install front castor, front and rear camber and a wheel alighnment from heaseman steering.......:O (I suuplied the parts)

Cheers

And I installed the springs and shocks for nothing :)

How is it going?

:D cheers ;)

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

And I installed the springs and shocks for nothing :)

How is it going?

;) cheers :O

HI Sk,

:) Thanks for your help on the other day installing the shocks, they doing really good actually apart from I have to reajust the wheel alighnment tomorrow as it drifts to the left and have a over steering issue. so I will be going tomorrow morning back to heasemen steering after doing my night shift today:(. Let you know how it goes after that,

Shocks are handling my car really good:)

Cheers

Chinthana

Sorry all, I have been out of action for 3 days, somebody gave me a nice little virus. So the PM inbox filled up, but it has been cleared now. So if you couldn’t get a message though over the last couple of days, please try again.

For those that did get a PM in before the overflow, please be patient, I will get to them all sometime today (or tonight).

:laugh: Cheers :rant:

Sorry all, I have been out of action for 3 days, somebody gave me a nice little virus. So the PM inbox filled up, but it has been cleared now. So if you couldn’t get a message though over the last couple of days, please try again.

For those that did get a PM in before the overflow, please be patient, I will get to them all sometime today (or tonight).

;) Cheers :ninja:

Hi Gary, pm sent...............at last. :rofl: Stay well, holidays are really unhealthy you know. To be avoided, cost money. :P

Hi Gary, pm sent...............at last. :no: Stay well, holidays are really unhealthy you know. To be avoided, cost money. :(

Holiday, what holiday? My next one is October, going to Florida for a Space Shuttle launch, then to Vegas for the SEMA show.

:( cheers :)

I am off to Bathurst tomorrow for the 12 Hour race, the race team is running (not a Skyline) and I have to do my Team Manager thing. I will be back on Tuesday, so please excuse the slow responses to posts and PM's.

:pirate: cheers :ph34r:

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, my inbox is filling up faster than I can respond to the PM’s. I usually get 30 to 40 PM’s a day. With the current delay in delivery, that has increased to 40 to 50 per day and I just can’t keep up with that sort of volume. Particularly as some of the more technical PM’s take 10 to 15 minutes each to reply to and my available time has decreased dramatically for reasons which will become obvious shortly.

I feel that I need to “broadcast” a Group Buy update until I can clear the backlog of PM’s. Here is the current situation;

1. A little back ground first. As you may be aware Redranger and Whiteline merged a couple of months ago. The first step was a merger of Sales, Marketing and Distribution functions and Whiteline’s Minto premises were simply not large enough to accommodate this. So the premises adjacent to Redranger at Somersby were acquired and that was utilised for the larger, merged entity. Some people have taken this as a sign that Redranger “took over” Whiteline, when that is in fact not the case, it is a true merger.

The Whiteline manufacturing premises at Minto remain. More news on that shortly.

2. How this affects the Group Buys. Many of the products that I specified for the Group Buy Kits are unique, it is what makes the kits “work” better than any other Skyline suspension update. This uniqueness has been possible because of my knowledge of the systems within Whiteline (plus Bilstein, of course). The Redranger merger has disrupted that system and the “unique” (to the Group Buy) parts have not been flowing through as they had previously.

3. The good news. I have been working 14 hours a day, every day, for the last week, including yesterday (Saturday) helping to clear that backlog of orders. As a result, all of the Group Buy orders should be delivered this week. At this point I can’t tell you what day your individual order will be delivered. But as they flow through the system I will inform you of the con note numbers as soon as they are issued (the normal system).

In conclusion, I know you probably don’t care about the reasons, you just want your stuff and that is totally understandable. But I felt I had to give some background and let you know that I am working on clearing the backlog (personally as it happens) so that we can return to our previous prompt responses. Please hang off on the PM’s, I promise you that I haven’t skipped off to Brazil with your money. That your stuff will be delivered very shortly.

:) Cheers :(

Gary,

We all appreciate the amazing amount of work you do and the contribution you make to this forum. It would be very unreasonable for us to expect you to make this your full time job and shut down the rest of your life (personal & work) to accomodate us. Thanks for chasing this down and we understand that the parts will get here as soon as possible.

Tim

Gary,

We all appreciate the amazing amount of work you do and the contribution you make to this forum. It would be very unreasonable for us to expect you to make this your full time job and shut down the rest of your life (personal & work) to accomodate us. Thanks for chasing this down and we understand that the parts will get here as soon as possible.

Tim

Thanks Tim, I have been concerned during the last week that I haven't had time to respond to PM's. If people take the time to write, then I feel obliged to take the time and respond. In additon, they have trusted me and sent their money to Jamex, I have an obligation there as well.

Plus, there is more to this, good things that what will become obvious shortly.

:) Cheers :(

Gary. We need full set of springs and shocks for the race car GTS25T asap can you help? they have to be on the car by June 1st absolute latest. Sorry for the urgency but we found today that we have big problems with the Whiteline DMS set up we have on now. 1 shock rod snapped 3 weepy ones. I don't want to get them refurbished AGAIN as I'm not very happy with them, and, the springs are really more suited to a road car.

Should have checked the car BEFORE I put in the entry fee shouldn't I.

Gary. We need full set of springs and shocks for the race car GTS25T asap can you help? they have to be on the car by June 1st absolute latest. Sorry for the urgency but we found today that we have big problems with the Whiteline DMS set up we have on now. 1 shock rod snapped 3 weepy ones. I don't want to get them refurbished AGAIN as I'm not very happy with them, and, the springs are really more suited to a road car.

Should have checked the car BEFORE I put in the entry fee shouldn't I.

PM sent, we can do it, you will be there, can't have a Skyline miss a race meeting.

:blink: cheers :huh:

Got the parts last week and just had time to get the sway bars on before the trek down to DECA. Car handled much better and look forward to getting the camber/caster/sub alignment done this week.

One question. We set the sway bars at medium (both front and back). Is there any benefit to setting them stiffer or looser? I (think I) know that setting them differently front to back induced oversteer/understeer but wasn't sure what greater/lessor stiffness on both does.

Got the parts last week and just had time to get the sway bars on before the trek down to DECA. Car handled much better and look forward to getting the camber/caster/sub alignment done this week.

One question. We set the sway bars at medium (both front and back). Is there any benefit to setting them stiffer or looser? I (think I) know that setting them differently front to back induced oversteer/understeer but wasn't sure what greater/lessor stiffness on both does.

I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting.

If it oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the middle setting

If it still oversteers too much, then I back the rear bar off to the softest setting

If it still oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the highest setting

If it still oversteers too much, then you might need some more rear camber and/or the HICAS is still working (get rid of it) and/or the rear subframe alignment kit needs to be set to maximum traction (squat)

I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting.

If it understeers too much, then I move the rear bar to the highest setting

If it still understeers too much then you don't have enough caster/camber on the front

:D Cheers :)

  • 2 weeks later...
Its just cost me $630 just to install front castor, front and rear camber and a wheel alighnment from heaseman steering.......:stupid: (I suuplied the parts)

Cheers

It cost me that plus some (subframe kit as well) but they seemed to know what they were doing and suggested after a track day they would be happy if I bring it back for tweaking if necessary.

Have only had it on the street so far but the car feels amazingly better. Everything feels tighter and more precise. Two goes at Wakefield coming up in the next 2 month so I'm very keen to see how it does.

Gary - you making it to the club track day?

  • 3 weeks later...

I just wanted to plug this group buy as excellent value and a fantastic performance upgrade.

I started originally with the stock suspension on a V Spec GTR. The ride was tired, harsh and uncontrolled over the Hong Kong roads which in many cases are concrete. I have had the full kit on for over a month now and I can't say enough good things about this set up. The ride has improved immensely and the handling is now contolled and confidence inspiring. The car is an absolute delight to drive and I can't wipe the smile of my face. :P:):(

I have very limited suspension knowledge and the mechanic I used had limited experience with this suspension upgrade but Sydneykid's patience and assistance allowed us to obtain a very pleasing result.

This kit will provide a quantum improvement in the ride and handling your Skyline.

Edited by Honky 33
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Sydneykid

Just wondering about availability of your kits at the moment for r33 gtr

I enquired once before but now am in a position to buy

Thanks champ

Regards Ike

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...