Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well as ur turbo is made up of different materials, its good to let it cool with a turbo timer, to keep oil / water flowing thru, since even under actual boost your turbo still spins at quite a few thousand rpm, tho nothing compared to the 40,000 plus rpm of boost..

Turbo's tend to not start making boost until they are spinning at 20,000rpms..

main use for the turbo timer is if you've been driving on boost for a long duration of time, the heat generated by the turbo is huge..

if you than pull up.. stop the car.. turn it off and walk away it has to disipate the heat somehow.. it's meant to stop the oil from sitting in the turbo and causing some side effects, not exactly sure what they are but when your driving you constantly have a cool air flow going past the turbo.. Think it's heat soak in the oil - can have bad sideeffects..

As for legalities - they are not legal in N.S.W. - main reason for this is a) it's illegal to leave a car running while you are not within the vehicle and B) in the case of an accident, if you have a turbo timer when the car crashes the engine/power will not shut off straight away which could either keep the engine running or the power which could cause further injury.

Before you complain - I have a turbo timer in my car which doubles as a boost gauge.. quite useful..

also - to answer your question - most turbo timers that automatically pick a duration to stay on go on how long you've been on boost for.. if it's >0 vacuum it will start adding time to the count.. mine frequently gets up to 20+secs which really would only matter if I turned off the car then and there..

  • 3 weeks later...

I went tru pit twice with HKS BOV and Turbo time...and passed...of course I disconnect the BOV so when the pit guys drive does muted sound...I think Turbo timers are Legal in W.A. ....the pit guys did not give any comment on it...

...that would be because race tracks are private property and you dont have to obey the same rules that you do on the road.... otherwise there would be a policeman up the end of each straight with a hair dryer :D

Unless you're planning on doing trackwork, timers are mostly used for wank factor.

I mean, think about it, if there was a real need for one, manufacturers would have taken that into consideration.

The temperatures achieved with normal or even "spirited" street driving aren't dangerous enough to cause any damage to the turbo. (Unless you have cooling issues)

....but this isn't the case here, so back on topic  :D

There is a thread covering this topic in NA performance which can be found here

Also be made aware that turbo timers are not legal in all states.  B)

That's not always the case.....

Manufacturers don't include turbo timers in the cars to save costs. Anyone that's owned a WRX would know this.... Manufacturers always put a warning in inside the cabin to say that if the car has been driven hard or done alot of freeway driving, to let it idle for 30 sec ~ 2 mins to let the car cool down before shutting it off. WRX's have them as a sticker near the drivers door latch. My MR2 had it written on the underside of the sun visor along with other warnings.

The temperatures achieved with normal or even "spirited" street driving aren't dangerous enough to cause any damage to the turbo. (Unless you have cooling issues)

Therefore this statement isnt necessarily correct. The temperatures achieved ARE dangerous enough to cause damage to the turbo and hence why there is a warning inside the car to tell you to cool it down.

Turbo Timers are essentially a little convenience IMHO. It lets the car cool down while you can lock it and go on about your business, negating the need for you to sit in the car while it idles for a couple of minutes (which can seem like an eternity when you're in a hurry).

Having said that, Subaru in particular (and I'm sure other manufacturers) have developed a system to cool the turbo down properly when the car is shut off. It keeps pumping water and oil through the turbo to sufficiently cool it down before completely shutting off. This was first introduced on the Liberty B4 and allows you to shut the car off immediately without fear of damaging your turbo and without the need to install a turbo timer in the vehicle.

Hope this has helped :O

Having said that, Subaru in particular (and I'm sure other manufacturers) have developed a system to cool the turbo down properly when the car is shut off. It keeps pumping water and oil through the turbo to sufficiently cool it down before completely shutting off. This was first introduced on the Liberty B4 and allows you to shut the car off immediately without fear of damaging your turbo and without the need to install a turbo timer in the vehicle.

Hope this has helped :D

You would think that other car companies would or should be using technology similar to this. Sounds like the perfect invention to look after your turbo and also keep the car legal.

If Subaru put this in the B4 then why didn't they put it in the WRX? Is it in the STi?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...