Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.. i know im on the skylines forum, but figured this may interest some of u..

i've spent the past few months converting my 180sx from SR20DET to 1JZGTE... as every nissan enthusiast does, i considered the ole RB25, but at the risk of starting a flame war, didnt go for it, cause it wouldnt be able to handle the power im going for.... much the same at the RB26... altho they r both good motors, for power handling in stock form and price off the shelf, the 1J left them both for dead... but enough on that.... i should hopefully have it all done and on the road in about 4 weeks... took some pics last night, as i finally fixed all the front panel damage from the original accident (that inspired the conversion back in february).

so far, ALL work has been carried out in my garage... engine came with some goodies on it, but everything else has been my own work - mounts, panel beating etc...

when its done, i'll hopefully come along to a meet.... i bought a few bits and pieces from this forum for the conversion, so it'd be cool to meet up with some of the guys i've met along the way again.

cheers

Greg

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...0entry1619357

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88208-1jz-180sx-almost-done/
Share on other sites

i considered the ole RB25, but at the risk of starting a flame war, didnt go for it, cause it wouldnt be able to handle the power im going for.... much the same at the RB26...
Fits a damn sight better than an RB. Oh, that's right, cause any RB = poo

and you call yourself a nissan fan pfft. anyways nice car

Very nice conversion, I'd love to see it once it's done

I just had a look at the NS thread, looks like you're going for about 350rwkw

an unopened RB26 (or 25/Neo?) should be able to support that I guess (if you don't flog it everywhere)

But anyways, full points for doing something different, I like it.

i considered the newer NEO engines, but when i looked at price V's power handling, the 1J won out.... i know its older, but it has been proven time and time again.... plus 700hp on stock internals and a happy redline of 8K....

aim is for as close to 400rwkw as possible on PULP... if i get some more dollars together by the end of the year, i'll see about a NOS kit, but there r plenty more things to happen with it before that.

i have some coilovers ready to go, just have to do the 5 stud and GTR brake conversion.

and yes, i do call myself a nissan fan... ask every one of the ppl i've helped and those who i've done CA and SR engine conversions for... it just sux that in the 2.5ltr class, nothing nissan has can reliably do what the 1J does... not to bag nissan as i loved my CA and SR, but the 1J came out on top for every goal i wanted to achieve - except weight distribution, but i have a 13bT on the way that will fix that :P

also, some of my favourite brown undie moments came from my mates VG30DET silvia, which i spent many months working on.... and my friend in sydney is currently working on another silvia with a VQ.... its not all about CA's, SR's or RB's for me....

.... and LEECH, the quote about RB=poo was not me.... nor do i endorse that narrow minded view... im more than sure there will be plenty of RB's that will hand me my ass and to be honest, i look forward to meeting them.. i know my car will be fast, so it will be a nice change to see an RB that has had money spent on the inside, not the outside.

Edited by wannaQik180
.... and LEECH, the quote about RB=poo was not me.... nor do i endorse that narrow minded view... im more than sure there will be plenty of RB's that will hand me my ass and to be honest, i look forward to meeting them.. i know my car will be fast, so it will be a nice change to see an RB that has had money spent on the inside, not the outside.

hehe i am just stirrin :D and my bad i just thought the guy posting would have been the owner :P i take back my comment but the guy that said that is a n00b :) j/ks each to their own i guess :P

its all good... and to stir things up even more, im also seriously thinking about a 13bT... i have the parts already and i am very open minded when it comes to conversions, but i dont think i could do it... as it is, the 1J sounds like a deep, throaty rotar at idle.. those cams sound f*cking awesome, but i dont think i could do it... the handling would be sensational, given the massive weight reduction and the engine sitting well behind the x-member, but i dont know..... might just have to wait for Benn to finish putting one in his 200sx.... will be an interesting ride.... 200sx, 13bT, 400+rwkw... but until he gets that done, he'll be spouting off things like RB = poo... i just hope when its done, he does have his ass handed to him (hopefully by me)... bring him down to earth, tho i reckon the price of petrol and $150+ a week should help with that... the rotars may throw out some power, but christ they dont do it too ecconomically...

as for the blood.. i learnt the hard way that when bringing a gear box and an engine together, to keep ones hands well and truly out of the bell housing... especially when ur "mate" is pushing as hard as he can at the other end.

Nathan... how long till ben is finished with ur conversion?? also, we need to do some touch ups to that oil cooler of urs... is more like an oil warmer the way its currently set up :D

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Is the 1j really able to put out 700 hp on stock internals? I shouldnt really be surprised but that is a lot. How reliable will that be. How does a 2j go comapred to a 1j how hp can they put out on stock internals?

it depends entirely on the tune, but lets just say that neither 1j nor 2j (or most factory powerplants lets face it) wouldn't be holding together for a long time...

the toyota engines are tough as nails, yes, but they're not unbreakable. i'd like to see a 1j with 700hp last indefinately...

d

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...