Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ohk just had my new alarm installed yesterday... however the remote start keeps trying to start the car after it turns it on

i was told that i will have to wrapp te wire around one of the coil packs and it would fit it.. and i did this... however the problem is still happening

does anyone have any ideas?

-Ruffels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88352-remote-start-keeps-trying/
Share on other sites

mm i didnt think so

i was told that the electromagnetic field produced from the coilpacks would induce a current (which makes sence, hence flux) in the wire and indicate to the alarm that the engine is on and to disscontine trying to start the car

however a friend who installed his own alarm in his cressida said he connected his remote start to his tacho wire

i am thoughrly confused right about now

and im just wondering if anyone with an r33 has remote start as part of thier alarm.. and if so how they overcame this

-Ruffels

R33 is behind the dash - yel/red on a S1 not sure what it is on a S2. do you own a multimeter and KNOW how to use it?

if no - pay a shop. you can wipe out a LOT of electrics on that car if you are not careful teh ECU bing one of them.

yup... i own a multimeter and i know how to use it :)

i cant be f***'d pulling the dash out so hopefully it comes down in the section of the loom that is accessable from under the steering collum

so i'll keep my eye out for a yellow and red wire cheers

-Ruffels

you dont have to drop the dash just to get to the tacho sense wire, the easiest solution would be to run the wire into the passengers kick trim and connect it to the ECU, from memory it is pin 7 from the ECU but i would check that first

Google is your friend, do a search for R33 ECU pinouts and im sure you will find the correct wire

Its obviously keeps tryin to start because the alarm isnt sensing any input to stop the module from cranking

you were able with the old style remote start alarms to wrap the sense wire around one of the ignition leads goin to the coil but this cant b done with the new style alarms

ohk... all fixed

thanks to Kris (krsysui) i managed to locate the tacho wire from the ECU

for all r33 boys its yellow with blue stripe.. both S1 and S2 so i dont know where you got the idea of yellow/red chris rogers... but thanks anyways

i took the wire and spliced into the tacho wire and the problem is now fixed :P

thanks all

-Ruffels

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
×
×
  • Create New...