Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have used one.

They certainly control boost. My stock turbo didn't like the boost I gave it though (operator error).

Now my Wife would not let me put it back in after turbo rebuild :(

El Bee

ps For sale IEBC and Hand Controller assembled and working. Will post something soon in appropriate section.

Yeah i know the thread, but how many people are using it? Just SK

Sk certainly swears by the Jaycar stuff, he gained 30kw by memory. A few people use it (successfully), but its too hard to tell, maybe no more than a 'bakers dozen' from what I can tell.

Q - can you solder and put together electronics? If so, then give it a go. But if you get it wrong.... a lot of time and effort wasted.

If not, maybe buy a Hybrid brand EBC? I got one for $300, just to replace the manual Turbosmart boost controller in the engine bay. Buy it from Flynn Performance by memory. Saves your time in soldering and putting the jaycar kit together.

Brendan :)

im trying to use one, got it in the car but not happening at the moment, im gonna get one of those $22 boost controller things while i try to get it working

Did you put it together yourself, solder it etc?

Thats why I didnt go that route, and bought the Hybrid EBC instead.... just didnt trust myself to do a 100% perfect job. Plus the time factor to do it properly as well (you know how it is, Ive got three women to please - car,bike,wife, and my kiddie to keep happy, ). :)

Not saying that you didnt do it right and proper, but I thought that if I bought a EBC and it didnt work, then it could be returned to the seller!

Brendan

yeh its a bit of a pain but ive learnt a bit while putting them together and in the car....its funny messing around with the ecu wires lol dont know what im doing really

dam screen comes up with blocks on the top line and no numerals or letters on the lcd :) sooo if any ideas

yeh its a bit of a pain but ive learnt a bit while putting them together and in the car....its funny messing around with the ecu wires lol dont know what im doing really

dam screen comes up with blocks on the top line and no numerals or letters on the lcd :P  sooo if any ideas

From memory (failing as it is) this could be just an adjustment of a pot, or making sure you have the "dot" and "line" chips in the correct places.

El Bee

if SydneyKid recommends it then you know its good regardless of whether or not anyone else uses it..

after all, he is god, isn't he?

No, but I talk to HER occasionally :P

I don't think SHE listens though :)

So far I have communicated with around 10 -12 guys running the Jaycar IEBC and/or DFA. All have reported great success. But you really do need to know how to build electronics kits, I have fixed 3 that guys have had problems with. Mostly simple stuff, like missing links or IC's the wrong way around.

:) cheers :)

Ive got the IEBC and DFA. Both work, but as yet have not been installed and tuned.

Building the kits was not that hard, but i have done a little bit of soldering before and was VERY careful and checked everything as i did it.

I've got mine in. It was easy to build and install. I have done a little soldering in my time, and i used a wiring diagram to find the right wires to splice into. The boost comes on hard and fast now, with my rb25 turbo on the rb20 i get about 14psi at about 2800 rpm and it holds spot on all the way through the rev range.

For 150 cash you cant go wrong.

ok.. let me rephrase then "WOW those pre-assembled BOOST CONTROLLER modules are very expensive at nearly $300 - you may as well buy a 2nd hand Profec, Blitz, etc EBC for that price" :):D I was just having a look on that page and speaking in general, lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...