Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've done a search on pinging topics and I've gotten some info back, though no one's problem seems to be exactly the same as what I've got here....

Well i'm fairly sure I've got a bad batch of fuel (Very bad batch)

I filled up with BP Ultimate (Use nothing else) on Wednesday arvo, and on Friday morning as I left home for work the engine started pinging it's tits off. This is after about 100km of driving since filling up. I managed to get myself to work with some careful driving to avoid it pinging, though I noticed that once the car was at full operating temperature the pinging stopped completely and I could drive it normally.

Though in the afternoon driving home (still very carefully) It didn't ping at all until it got to full operating temperature, and not as much as before.

I spent the whole afternoon trying to sort it out, it's got a new fuel filter and a bottle of octane booster in it, the tank is about 2/3 full now.

Now it will still ping, about as much as it did yesterday. Doesn't seem as though the octane booster has made much of a difference. (Although I've only driven about 5-10 "testing" kms since it was put in, I guess that's probably too early for it to take effect. I've never had to use booster before so I don't know how long it takes)

When idling it purrs like it always does, the car drives dead smooth, I don't know if it's losing power as I'm certainly not game to give it a boot. It's not misfiring/running on 4/5 cylinders.

It seems to be most suseptible to pinging if I'm only applying the lightest amount of throttle (5-10% let's say). That being said, I haven't given it anymore go once it starts, I just back off straight away.

It doesn't need any boost or hard driving to start pinging.

Any ideas? I'm not really in the mood for buying another neo.....

Drain fuel tank?

Could this be the result of fuel companies toying with ethanol mixtures as mentioned in the news?

Edited by Bluprint
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88779-rb25-pinging-like-buggery/
Share on other sites

I checked that yesterday, seems to be as it always was.

Bolts were tight and the markings still lined up.

The more I think about it the more I seem to think that my fuel pump is dying....Bosch 040 7000kms old? Not likely huh......

Perhaps running the tank low did it, because trhat's all I can think of.

If you are thinking fuel starvation, pull the return line off and point it into a tin to make sure there is fuel getting through.

Maybe a connection at the fuel pump came loose. It happened to me but it came completely off and wouldn't start.

ok, a friend and I spent most of the afternoon on it

we drained the fuel out and put new fuel into it...... it's still pinging.

Pulled the plugs out, they look fine and are the correct gap. Not black and not white.

It's off to a workshop tomrrow.

Edited by Bluprint

Problem sorted!

f**k me...... check this shit out

At the point where the wiring loom was cable tied to the firewall, apparently there was one wire which was unshielded from when the engine conversion was wired up, the wiring loom was spliced in at that point and it was never covered up afterwards.... this was a wire for one of the knock sensors. Because it was unshielded it had started to come into contact with the body of the car, giving the sensor a false signal that there was pinging occuring within the engine.... causing the engine to act "accordingly", thus causing it to ping for real.

I guess it pays to have a shit hot auto electrician ;D

sorry I don't see how a knock sensor fault can introduce pinging......if it detects knock the ECU pulls timing and richens the AFR to ensure it does not ping?

It may have fixed your problem but if so your problem was not pinging :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...