Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i know its been covered before because ive read it but i cant find the bloody thing,

ive got a power fc which was bought with a motor, it was all good in the other car, but as soon as we put the motor in my car, tuned it when we turned the car off and back on it wasnt memorizing the new settings, just went back to a base map..

like i said i know its been covered before but what could be some solutions, is it somethin to do with my loom? pwoer cable?

any info would be great

ben...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88993-power-fc-not-memorizing-map/
Share on other sites

nah its not locked, but yes my mechanic tunes alot of power fc's which is why it has him stumped, does the ecu need more power when the car is off or something?

ben...

I think INASNT on here had the exact same problem. It was to do with faulty wiring. Not sure if it was faulty wiring going to the FC or the wiring in the car its self. PM him

It's not an old Power FC is it? I remember reading on these forums that older Power FC's use a small battery to store the settings in it's memory, kind of like a computer's motherboard stores it's BIOS settings. Could this be the case?

"Games don't affect people. If Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms munching on pills and listening to repetitive music."

i remember reading a post on this forum about the same problem and the solution was the the alarm or something to do with it.

Apparently the pfc needs power for a few seconds after the car is switched off to save its settings.

Thats all i can remember reading about that problem.

You need to make sure the eccs relays are wired in correctly as well as the ignition switch signal to the ecu.

The ecu triggers the eccs relay to power up everything when it receives the ignition switch on signal. It also maintains power to the ecu for a second or so after the ignition is switched off which is when the pfc writes everything to memory.

BHdave is correct, we spent some time fixing my car a while back

The ECCS relay is powered by the ECU, and must be turned off about 2-3 seconds after the igition to allow the FC to store the tune.

The Ignition switch powers up the ECU, The ECU now powers up the ECCS relay which in turn powers up the ECU completely and the coils, ignitor, injectors etc etc.

The problem seems to lie either with the wiring from the ECU to the ECCS or with the ECU itself.

Now Instead of tracing a potentially massive wiring issue it is simpler to make a switch circuit and wire it into the loom.

Using a capacitor, relay and diode you can make a circuit that will hold power to the ECU for about 4 seconds.

Basicly you need to wire up the condenser so that when you remove ignition it is powering up the relay which is spliced into the main ECCS feed to the ECU.

I have used this method on several vehicles with a 100% sucess rate.

I had this same thing happen to my first FC

thanks to good old mohammad from these very forums, at very short notice of finding out the current FC was doing this, I rang him as he had told me he had heaps of parts.... anyhow 30mins later he rocks up to the workshop with a FC for the GTR!!! amazing! faster than a pizza!

plugged in the new FC and bingo all ok....

basically I was told by BEL that these problems are a known fault with the FC and that Apexi know about it...

I then rang the guy i bought it from originally... and he had to send it away to get looked at and repaired...(SAU trader also...but not as user friendly as Mo :) )

well that was 4 months ago!!!!

and no sign of my FC!

once I get it back and it is factory repaired I will test it and then sell it....

so yes it is a fault that apexi know about....

ring BEL for some contact info for apexi....

williamsf1 - is yours the newer version ? if apexi know about it perhaps they would replace under warranty ( useless if its a design fault ) but then again power fc's been around for god knows . unfortunately i have the old one ( no warrantys there )

symtoms of my one are- (second hand unit 10-15 yo? )

when you turn the key to acc the relays in the kick panel behind ecu would tick like crazy (sumtimes)

relays in the boot would tick like crazy (sumtimes)

replace power fc with standard ecu and problem solved

end result i hav purchased power fc d-jetro

Risking: good info thanks for than

just a note, a while ago i bought a power fc which made it do the same thing, and apparently that was the older one so i bought another new one which fixed it,

only thing that had me thinkin it wasnt the ecu itself is the fact that it worked in another car so it must be my car's wiring thats all over the shop

ben...

well my current FC kills instantly...

I have it on good authority that this is a comman fault that is described above.... just contact apexi here in OZ or if you cant call BEL garage as they know of the problem...

Im still waiting to get my first unit back!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...