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Something that anybody looking at putting R32 brakes onto thier R30 should take a look at.

http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6186

One of the guys over at Ozdat has fitted the Datsport upgrade kit for 1600's to a HR31 using the standard 15inch rims :P

http://www.datsport.com/R32_CODS.html

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89191-interesting-brake-upgrade-option/
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Zapata,

For $3000.00 coversion cost they would have to g'tee stopping on a dime/sixpence/five cent piece.

I can get 296 x 32 BNR32 GTR brake upgrades for a sh!t load cheaper than that.

I can buy genuine BREMBO slotted rotors for $220.00 each & I have the calipers already ($400.00) the only drama for me is the mounts spacings & offset, but I think machining the stock hubs to allow the GTR rotors to go over the top will suffice.

The conversion is old hat these days, but still many prefer to use VT Commodore 330 dia rotors etc.

As our R30's only weigh 1100 odd kg I don't see the need to go bigger than BOLT ON DR's and EBC pads.

I have a mate in Adelaide that has done the VT conversion and in as much that the car has a marked change in braking characteristic I don't think they would be better than 4 pot BNR32's, ONLY cheaper as he has stock MR30 rear disc set up.

The DR rear although using the same size pad, it is 290 diameter as opposed to 254. The leaverage is a huge improvement.

I'm going to do the BNR32 GTR front upgrade a bit later down the track.

My first priority is to get it registered with the coil overs and DR set up front & rear. Along with bigger sway bars that will have to be fine tuned.

I have a complete DR Iron Mask body kit including the optional rear wing.

I get my bonnet back next tuesday and I am a bit apprehensive how it will look, but time will tell.

Yeah that seems very odd. Why go to the trouble of converting AUSSIE struts when the HR31 has the magic 100mm bolt spacing for the 4 pots anyway??? Only reason I can think of is to keep 15" wheels (?)

You'd want to have bloody nice 15's to warrant that expense though! :O

And Ghostrider,what have you had done to your bonet?

And Ghostrider,what have you had done to your bonet?

I have had some 16, 1/2 inch louvres punched into an IRON MASK bonnet at a point behind the front of the engine.

I figure with 3 each side of centre on the top ridge and about 5 of varying widths in each side channel, I will create a drift style effect at a portion of the cost plus increase the air flow through the radiators & coolers up front without having to tilt up the rear of the bonnet.

And Ghostrider,what have you had done to your bonet?

I have had some 16, 1/2 inch louvres punched into an IRON MASK bonnet at a point behind the front of the engine.

I figure with 3 each side of centre on the top ridge and about 5 of varying widths in each side channel, I will create a drift style effect at a portion of the cost plus increase the air flow through the radiators & coolers up front without having to tilt up the rear of the bonnet.

I assume you're also going to make some guides from the bonet to the rear of the radiator to direct as much air as possible up and out? (that's what I'm planning :) )I've been looking at the Jetspeed 'drift vent' for $110,but don't think I want a raised thing on the bonet

How did you go with the bonet skin getting punched? Any distortion at all?

I assume you're also going to make some guides from the bonet to the rear of the radiator to direct as much air as possible up and out? (that's what I'm planning :) )I've been looking at the Jetspeed 'drift vent' for $110,but don't think I want a raised thing on the bonet

How did you go with the bonet skin getting punched? Any distortion at all?

I CAN'T ANSWER YOUR DISTORTION QUESTION UNTIL TUESDAY, but as for guides to channel air, please explain why we/I can't rely on simple physics to do the job.

This is my thoughts on the subject:

As the air moves over the bonnet and over the louvres, a low pressure area is created directly behind the louvre and therefore faster moving cold/outside air sucks all hot air out through this low pressure trough.

A guesstimate on the distortion issue would be nil, as all the work is done without chabging the bracing underneath.

I am interested that you have been thinking this way, as we (the forum) had a similar discussion some time back about a drift style carbon fibre bonnet being made.

This idea of mine was howled down by certain bodies but heaped praise on the drift style. My initial enquiries found the difference in weight between the steel and carbon fibre was about 5kg, yet would cost in excess of $2000.00. Probably easier to go on a diet for a lousy 5 kilo.

I am interested that you have been thinking this way, as we (the forum) had a similar discussion some time back about a drift style carbon fibre bonnet being made.

Well,I'd imagine it'd be a similar thing to having guides at the side of the radiator at the front,to direct as much of the total air as possible through it.The result would be a nice clean path for the air to flow through the rad.Same on the back side...instead of letting the air blow through the croe and into the engine bay,why not make some guides on the rear of it,so as to direct it up and out the vent,once again giving the same clean path for the air to flow,and keeping air velocity up,since I'd imagine once passing through the rad and into the engine bay area,it's flow would be disrupted.

Yes just a vent using negative pressure would draw some air out of the bay,but to my mind,it wouldn't be as effective as if it were guided out,so the air flow through the core,as well as negative pressure would be pushing/drawing it out.

Just my thoughts :)

PS-how did the vents turn out?

EDIT - just realised that I've missread you original post.Geez I'm a dumbass :)

Still think some form of guides would be good.Eg-if you wanted to vent out some hot air from the turbo/exhaust area,you could have a little "scoop" on the underside of the bonnet that when the bonet was closed,the scoop fitted close to the exhaust manafold,etc.

Keep in mind that too close to the screen would be a high pressure area though!

Edited by 0HR-30T
Well,I'd imagine it'd be a similar thing to having guides at the side of the radiator at the front,to direct as much of the total air as possible through it.The result would be a nice clean path for the air to flow through the rad.Same on the back side...instead of letting the air blow through the croe and into the engine bay,why not make some guides on the rear of it,so as to direct it up and out the vent,once again giving the same clean path for the air to flow,and keeping air velocity up,since I'd imagine once passing through the rad and into the engine bay area,it's flow would be disrupted.

Yes just a vent using negative pressure would draw some air out of the bay,but to my mind,it wouldn't be as effective as if it were guided out,so the air flow through the core,as well as negative pressure would be pushing/drawing it out.

Just my thoughts :D

PS-how did the vents turn out?

EDIT - just realised that I've missread you original post.Geez I'm a dumbass :unsure:

Still think some form of guides would be good.Eg-if you wanted to vent out some hot air from the turbo/exhaust area,you could have a little "scoop" on the underside of the bonnet that when the bonet was closed,the scoop fitted close to the exhaust manafold,etc.

Keep in mind that too close to the screen would be a high pressure area though!

Distortion is NIL and decide for yourself how it looks.

Cheers

  • 2 months later...
That looks great Ghostrider. I was thinking about some kind of venting on the drs bonnet since it was raining really heavily one day, and there was still steam coming off the top of the bonnet haha.

How much is venting like that worth?

$250.00

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