Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got my car dynoed,

r33 gtst with

fmic,

3 inch exhaust all the way with standard dump pipe,

boost at just under 10psi

it was running well, richened up a bit at the end, which i was told was fine.

But why the huge loss of power thru the drive train??? if it has 200kW i was expecting a more impressive figure of say 160rwkw at least!

ive raised the boost up after that to about 11-12 psi but it still doesnt feel like a jet..

138.8rwkw sounds a bit embarrasing. Do people talk rear wheel kw on here or mainly at the flywheel?

further down the track will be dump pipe, and power fc and tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89359-only-1388rwkw-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

what about your cat? is it a highflow item or compliance item?

the cat and the standard dump pipe will be severly restricting the flow at that amount of boost.

Get a new dump pipe, and cat (if you dont have one already) and the car should push a shitload better when on boost.

also get a new highflow panel filter if you havent already, these basic steps will see you pushing some better figures.

And we all usually talk rear wheel kilowatts rwkw, its pretty hard to pull the engine and dyno it at the engine :O

i'l have to check my cat out. but ive got a newish looking 3inch system from the dump pipe and back.

I bought the car with a pod, so i dont have the standard airbox.

well i asked the guys that dynoed it how they got the flywheel figure, and they said it can be done by computer.. :O

so i guess its probably the dump pipe restricting me.

tho i could swear it nearly felt faster before i got the cooler and raised the boost :S

maybe just phsycological since there isnt that second stage boost kick any more

post your dyno chart it will help diagnose the problem... even if the dyno is reading low you should be making better power than that...

I make 200rwkw with stock cat and dump pipe so I'm not sure thats the best place to start... look to see if you have a problem before throwing parts at it IMO...

then a power fc or piggyback to lean out your mixtures and just make sure your pod isn't sucking hot air... then you should be right

Yes the good old first dyno... it was a shocker for me as well; but since then: lots of sweat, blood and $$$ to get a less embarassing number :)

I must say I was near tears when I saw my first dyno graph :O

hi mate, when u made 200rwkw was that also on "just under 10psi"? and was it in shoot out mode?

138 does seem low but when u said just under 10psi is that 9 or 8? cuz theres a fair bit of difference.

And id have to agree with the piggy back computer suggestion especailly when increasing boost!, already a turbo skyline runs rich, especally in the top end. this is an extreme measure the stock cpu takes to prevent pinging, but if u get better air to fuel ratios ur engine will have better combuistion and ull increase ur output by about 30rwkw

best of luck dude

post your dyno chart it will help diagnose the problem... even if the dyno is reading low you should be making better power than that...

I make 200rwkw with stock cat and dump pipe so I'm not sure thats the best place to start... look to see if you have a problem before throwing parts at it IMO...

then a power fc or piggyback to lean out your mixtures and just make sure your pod isn't sucking hot air... then you should be right

thanks for the replies.

It was practically 10psi, it did reach it at one stage but then bled off a touch which is meant to be ok.

I plan to make a box for my pod so it draws air thru a hole where the old intercooler piping came thru. Im sceptical on the result of this tho, as by the time the air goes through the turbo it gets so hot it needs to go via the intercooler anyway.

as i mentioned earlier i thought drivetrain power loss would only be 40kW max.. hehe not 60 :) depressing especialy when u see people posting these 190 - 220rwkw figures haha..

Is the general consensus that a piggy back computer with a tune will provide me with a Significant power increase for now, or do i need the dump pipe to make the most of it.

(spending $$$ on a dump pipe and powerfc at this stage is waay down the track at this stage unfortunately)

ok next thing i just thought of, compression test to see if there is any blow by past the rings, how many K's of the clock, the fuel Econ seems not to bad

I just had a look at the graph for some reason its been done in 3rd gear not 4th

well if you're running in shootout 6 it should read higher, most r33 with fmic & 10psi boost can easily make 180rwkw on the dyno chart.

something is definitely not right... are you sure:

1 your clutch is not slipping?

2 your tyres not slipping on the dyno roller?

3 your fuel pump is not dying? it happened to me and it confuses the ecu showing a/f is good but it's actually constantly retarding timing and i only reached no more than 150rwkw till i replaced the fuel pump.

4 in my experience with stock ecu, anything above 10psi boost will be a little bit hard for the stock ecu to manage, it'll get very confused, unless you have a freak one that handles 12psi ok. wait till u get powerfc before winding it up.

5. check other things that may contribute to the issue like your coil packs, fuel filter, plugs, and don't forget to check your base timing! had a mate who had weird pinging problem cos his base timing is way off.

I don't think its that bad a power figure. If you think about it stock would be about 130rwkw. You haven't finished the whole exhaust, intercooler doesn't really give more power by itself, 10psi + cooler probably too much airflow for stock ecu.

Mine at 10psi with with R34 cooler was goiong rich and retard. All depends on the setup but seems some seem to be able to handle more mods etc before stock ecu has a fit. I'm suprised people make 180rwkw without either piggyback or full ecu..my experience with the strock computer is that it is pretty cr*p

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
    • Wife and I are still looking for a new home. One condition was a large enough garage for a full-size lift in one bay. Now if only we could find something... We've been looking for almost a year now.
    • Thanks everyone for the ideas! Sadly, ramps are a no go for me. With young kids at home, I do most of my work late at night while they're sleeping. Starting the car multiple times wouldn't be a great idea.  I'll go see one of those new long reach low profile jacks and take a couple measurements to see if they will fit.   
×
×
  • Create New...