Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTST HICAS = scary

HSVKLR

By HSVKLR,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Silver-Arrowz Grand Master

Silver-Arrowz

Posted
Posted

If HICAS is playing up, just get rid of it. It's too messy trying to fix it as most mechanics have no idea what it is or how it works.

I like the idea that I'm controlling the rear end, not some computer correcting me while I'm correcting it, and it's correcting me while...... you get the idea.

51jay Mentor

51jay

Posted
Posted

If you'r having problems which you THINK are caused by the HICAS you shouldfind some one with the software to diagnose it correctly and the knowhow to fix it.

You should only think about disableing it if you are a serious drifter or very fast around a track.

at least half the problems mentioned in this thread most probably have nothing to do with the HICAS

  • 9 months later...
Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted

Don't automatically assume the rear end "vague/wandering" feeling is due to the HICAS. I locked out my HICAS, and during the job found that the rear tie rods were rooted. The play in the rods were almost as much as the HICAS movement!

Advice - R32s are getting on in years - check all rods, bushes and knuckles for play and replace as necessary. The parts aren't expensive and it's amazing what difference it makes.

robert112 Apprentice

robert112

Posted
Posted

I have a problem where I can't enable my hicas diagnostics because my steering wheel isn't sitting straight. it's like 1 whole notch on the steering bolt to the right. But god damn if I was driving straight and the rear kicked out like that I would definately not drive it till i got it fixed, Hope you know what your doing about 'locking your HICAS' because I guess as Gav said, there's a chance it's not even that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...