Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, just wondering which brand (either Trust or HKS) ppl think is better for a bolt on turbo... eg. GT2530 vs TD-05 and more importantly WHY!  ive heard that trust turbos are not water cooled, is there any truth to this??

Thats true with most of the trust turbo's, also HKS turbo's are modified garret turbo's and they are ball bearing which should help improve spoolup, and they can be rebult with carret internals, that said both trust and hks have excellent reputations so it's up to personal choice.

hey all, just wondering which brand (either Trust or HKS) ppl think is better for a bolt on turbo... eg. GT2530 vs TD-05 and more importantly WHY!  ive heard that trust turbos are not water cooled, is there any truth to this??

Td05 is only oil-cooled,

I wouldnt waste your money on a td05 if your going to buy anything i would do td06-20g with 8 or 10cm rear housing

Are we talking HKS or garrett as althou they are pretty similar i rate hks turbo higher than the plan garrett one.

heres a chart to find you an idea of Hp V's Turbo

turbochart10de0ue.jpg

trust turbos are oil cooled/plain bearing and based on mitsubishi items...

hks turbos are water&oil cooled/ball bearing and based on garret items...

it would have to be said that hks turbos are much better

not all hks turbo are water & oil cooled, for example the HKS t04e

when i said the GT2530 i was more thinking the HKS version.  from what i've heard theyre definately the way to go over the Garret one.  whats the difference between the two?

if you can find a td05 it should be pretty cheap, i almost bought one a few months back, the thing sold for about $600-$700 i think. compare to the HKS gt2530 which is about $1000-$1500

nothing wrong with plan bearing/oil cooled only turbos :P

Does anyone know where I can get my hands onto a Garrett or HKS bolt-on turbo for a RB25DET between now (Thrus, 6t Oct) to Monday (10-Oct) for around the $1,000 - $1,500 mark?

The workshop trying to source a turbo for me cant get onto any turbo's due to them all being sold out right now as we recently just had Jamboree here in QLD.

I'm pretty much after one really URGENTLY!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...