Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've added you to the list.

come on the rest of you, I need details on what sort of Datalogit you need.

I need GTSt v1.100 for ECR33

My PFC version is 5.01A - based on the spreadsheet this should be the right one?

Edited by Dale FZ1
  • Replies 244
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey aussies!

First i just wanna give you credit for the perfect country you're all living in. I were there last christmas, and i will soon be back! :D

Im joining this group-buy, and im up for a FC-Datalogit GTR v1:110.

But please pm me informaton about these questions;

1- Would you be able to ship it to Sweden, and could u give me a ~price.

2- Is it possible to get a receipt for this product? I have a company in Sweden and it would help me out. :angry:

Edited by J-Spec Sweden

I need car models from -

3. Stolly - Datalogit Version -???

4. Snowman - Datalogit Version -???

6. yogi000 - Datalogit Version -???

10. Paulr33 - Datalogit Version -???

11. Penfold - R33 GTR - Datalogit Version -???

Hurry guys, so we can get this group buy under way.

Does a moderator want to move this to the group buy section? Not sure. Also, let me know if there are any group buy rules for SAU.

3. Stolly - Datalogit Version -???

4. Snowman - Datalogit Version -???

6. yogi000 - Datalogit Version -???

Come on guys! Where the hell are you.. PM's SENT, if you don't reply, I am gonig to remove you from the list.

Hey put me down! I've been trying to get one for ages!

Version v1:110 to suit wrx

I assume it will work with the gtr power fc too because it is the same version? I hope it does hehe

added... You wanna hope so

So, are we just waiting on these three guys before you can order?

Yeah, pretty much. As soon as they get their act together and tell me what version they need, I will get everyoens contact details, provide mine, and start collecting money for the guys we are gonig to purchase these datalogits off.

Then I will supply the guys all of our addresses so they can dispatch them to us.

Mafia, Id prefer to buy the USB cable connection as well. I dont want a serial connection as its "old school" :)

They can be bought anywhere but if you want to pay extra and get the one that they supply, go for it.

Also, I am an IT support Professional. I will tell you one thing, serial may be old school, but its very stable and will have less conectivity issues than usb.

If you wanna run windows 98, forget about it. Too much trouble.

yeah its the same with the consult cable.. some people had issues with some adaptors..

long as u dont buy the cheapest one you should be right..

I know someone with datalogit, and i think i remember them saying that they tried a lot of generic adaptors, and only had luck with the adaptor that the datalogit people supplied....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...