Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There has been a couple of threads on this in the last few weeks.

A leak down test is more informative than a compression test.

Also, it's more important that the compression is even than that it is a particular psi on a particular gaugue on a particular day with a particular battery level with whatever temperature the engine is.

All of those things affect the reading.

Thanks for your reply, i got the results in and the compression in each cyclinder is as follows: 90 75 90 75 90 90. The guys at the workshop reckon this is okay. But like you said its pretty even. So should this be a worry at all?

There has been a couple of threads on this in the last few weeks.

A leak down test is more informative than a compression test.

Also, it's more important that the compression is even than that it is a particular psi on a particular gaugue on a particular day with a particular battery level with whatever temperature the engine is.

All of those things affect the reading.

Thanks for your reply, i got the results in and the compression in each cyclinder is as follows: 90 75 90 75 90 90. The guys at the workshop reckon this is okay. But like you said its pretty even. So should this be a worry at all?

If the compression test was conducted properly (warm engine, wide open throttle when cranking) then those results are pretty poor and the engine is fairly worn out. I believe Nissan specifications say 130 - 170psi.

WHat do you mean by wide open throttle when cranking? This GTR also has a worn out clutch would that affect the reults at all?

If the compression test was conducted properly (warm engine, wide open throttle when cranking) then those results are pretty poor and the engine is fairly worn out. I believe Nissan specifications say 130 - 170psi.

Engine should be adequately warmed, fuel pump fuse taken out, throttle floored and crank engine until gauge doesn't move. 8 or so compression strokes.

from nissan manual

new 171psi

normal 160psi

limit 128psi

14psi max variance between cylinders.

I tested mine and got 175 175 175 165 170 173psi, 1992 GTR

It was higher than stock? Could it be from carbon in the cylinders increasing the compression ratio?

when i got mine tested 1990 GTR

i got 140 140 135 140 135 140

which is ok for one thats done 100k little low but even so...

and as far as i understand u dont wanna go below 130

i dont know the whole deal but those pressures dont sound good

good luck

RellikZephyr

I just had mine comp tested at Grey imports here in sydney. 190 highest and 180 lowest..maybe gauge was reading high? But still pretty even which is a good sign, nathan there said, no need for a leak down test, its pretty good.

after I rebuilt my gtst - which is practically the same so be quiet all you GTR owners - I had a reading of 120 140 130 160 80 120 when it was cold and a reading of 160 160 160 160 160 160 when it was warm.

This is how much of a difference it will make so get it checked when it is at operating temp.

I also have forged pistons so be quiet all you cast piston owners....lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...