Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have placed up a full tutorial on this, from start to finish.. This question gets asked regularly, so it was about time *somebody* did it and wrote up exactly how they did it..

Due to the server here always losing my images for any period of time, I've decided to put it all on my project website..

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

Photos aren't actually up yet as I am still resizing, etc (and there are quite a few)... but for now you can read through. They will be up in a few days.

cheers,

Gordon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90401-r32-installing-rb25-turbo/
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I just used predator's guide yesterday and did my conversion. I just thought I'd post a few things that I have found.

Predator, feel free to use them in your guide if you agree.

1) Drop the coolant in the normal fashion before un-doing the water lines on the turbo (so drain from radiator) You are going to lose it all anyways, this way it's not as messy

2) I had to change water lines (89 GTST 4 door) and I can now tell you how you can work it out BEFORE you go to all the effort. Predator pointed out you need a 24mm socket for the water lines...well mine were 22mm, which obviously means it was a different size! So... you just need to get to the water lines and see what size socket it is. You still will have to remove the intake pipe, but it's only a 15 minute job to check to save you either stress or money about if you will need them.

3) I put the nipple onto the compressor housing and it is working fine. So if you are likely to change FMIC pipes it may be a better option *shrugs* up to you, apparently there is no performance difference by putting it in either spot.

4) Clean your water lines while they are out (if you take them out)

Cheers

Chris

Edited by eXc
  • 3 months later...

i went off this guide its great so helpfull good job mate. i found that to get that tricky line off close to the engine where you had to take it off the block instead. you can take that oil line off next to it the rollercoaster one like a loop d loop! and you can undo that water line off the turbo instead of taking the whole line off the car.

i went off this guide its great so helpfull good job mate. i found that to get that tricky line off close to the engine where you had to take it off the block instead. you can take that oil line off next to it the rollercoaster one like a loop d loop! and you can undo that water line off the turbo instead of taking the whole line off the car.

BINGO! that's spot on the money. that's the way i do them too. It's easy to get the line off from under the car once you take the oil line off.

you don't even have to take the oil line off - you can do it with the oil line on, but it makes it a lot easier.

  • 1 year later...

hey just did this a couple of hours ago

few things i noticed

make sure u take off the oil return first, i forgot all about that until i went to take if off the car,

i left the dump pipe on the turbo and just undid the 3 bolts going to the front pipe, then when i installed it, i put the turbo back in the car with my new just jap split dump and front pipe attached to it,

the stupid line at the back of the turbo i could get a spanner on, yet couldnt be stuffed turning it that many times to get it off, so i undid the turbo from the manifold, carefuly slid it forward then used a socket and ratchet to take the line off, put it back on that way to (ratchet on, then bolt turbo to manifold)

i also took the actuator off the turbo while still in the car

also when i undid the oil drain, i undid the 2 12 mm bolts off the turbo instead of the flexible pipe

  • 5 weeks later...

Yeah, use the RB 20 actuator. The RB25 actuator is set to something like 4psi.

There are a few differences with the turbos. A series 2 r33 turbo is the same as a series 1 r34 turbo. The both feture the nylon (i think thats the name for it) impeller wheel. Helps it to spool faster.

A series 2 r34 turbo has the same impeller wheel but has a OP6 rear housing. The rear housing is similer to the size of a VG30 turbo. You might see a little bit more lag with the bigger rear housing on the RB20.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...

Bookmarked your project website. Thanks

I have placed up a full tutorial on this, from start to finish.. This question gets asked regularly, so it was about time *somebody* did it and wrote up exactly how they did it..

Due to the server here always losing my images for any period of time, I've decided to put it all on my project website..

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

Photos aren't actually up yet as I am still resizing, etc (and there are quite a few)... but for now you can read through. They will be up in a few days.

cheers,

Gordon

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...