Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

was driving along a couple of weeks agoin my R33 minding my own business when i heard a nasty noise and lost boost. A little investigation revealed a blown turbo. Although i was a bit upset with having my car off the road i seen this as an opportunity to upgrade. I took it to GCG and had them rebuild it and high flow it. When we installed it again and started the motor one of the cylinders were missing and the motor was making an even more horrible noise. A compression test revealed thet a peice of turbo has damaged on of the valves. My question is, in the interest of turning another negative into a positive i was thinking of doing some head work and cams and i was wondering who would be able to do a port and polish for me in western sydney and how much it would cost and what cams are suitable to use with a standard ecu.

I currently have

3" exhaust

FMIC

GCG highflow

Thanx guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90427-turning-a-negative-into-a-positive/
Share on other sites

if your engine has suffered from a ceramic wheel letting go.. I'd say you will have to rebuild the whole engine as ur engine really doesnt like ceramic dust on your big end and main bearings, rings, well.. pretty much everything.. so ive been told anyway.. forged pistons and rods time for a positive eh :)

Ceramic wheel is only on exhaust side dude. nylon wheel on the compressor side. Only one cylinder has dropped compression and it is a valve, so i am hoping to get away with a top end rebuild. I have the head off and the bores look really good (no lips or scratches).

i dont mean to scare you or anything but il tell you what happened to my rb26.

it blew the rear turbo on boost and it spat bits of ceramic all through the motor.

some how the wheel fragments made there way UP the manifold and destroyed the motor. :O

my engine looked as if somone hat fed it a big handfull of sand. 40thou to clean up the bores.

the machine shop confirmed this almost imposible senario. they broke 3 head shaving tools from the ceramic imbedded in the head surface!!! :)

but this is a weird one and yours shouldent of had it go to this extent.

id get the bores inspected with a borescope just to be safe but.

i dont mean to scare you or anything but il tell you what happened to my rb26.

it blew the rear turbo on boost and it spat bits of ceramic all through the motor.

some how the wheel fragments made there way UP the manifold and destroyed the motor. :O

my engine looked as if somone hat fed it a big handfull of sand. 40thou to clean up the bores.

the machine shop confirmed this almost imposible senario. they broke 3 head shaving tools from the ceramic imbedded in the head surface!!! :)

but this is a weird one and yours shouldent of had it go to this extent.

id get the bores inspected with a borescope just to be safe but.

Thats very common on rb26's when a turbo lets go , i have seen heaps with ceramic dust through them , i must say i havent seen it in an rb25 .

He said he has the cil head off , so he can see the condition of the bore , a borescope is put in through the sparkie hole to inspect the bore .

The head flows so well from factory, why waste money on porting it, for minimal gains.

Just get it all built to standard spec and spend the $ on a set of cams for a worthwhile performance increase.

Agreed, as always, you and i know whats going on RB30-Power :P

I was running pretty much standard boost, i mean i had done the mod on the standard boost controller to run the high setting right through the rev range so with the exhaust freeing it up i was getting about 10-12 psi. Both sides of the turbo let go, there was nothing but a shaft left. I assume the compressor side let go and peices of that destroyed the exhaust side. Can anyone tell me what cams to get, where i'll get the best price and how much they will cost me. Remember standard ecu!

Thanx guys

Looking forward to seeing the results of a turbo upgrade and cams :blink::P

freer exhaust won't give you 10-12psi. I've seen on 2 r33s before and after exhaust upgrade they still run the same boost (within 1psi).

If the solenoid wasn't there then they would run exactly the same boost.

Because the solenoid is there it bypasses the same amount of air so you may get a very small boost increase but not much ! I noticed fitting an R34 intercooler gave a 0.5psi increase exhaust about the same

What people dont understand is that it is a pressure actuator and will do what it can to maintain 5psi (solenoid open allows it to hold 7-8psi as it bypasses air that would otherwise go to the actuator)

Somebody mentioned that freeing the exhaust actually helps it control boost as the wastegate is no longer choked up by the crap standard dump pipe.

Unlucky about the turbo :)

Edited by benl1981

Sounds pretty much exactly wat happened to me 2 weeks ago to this very nite, but i just blew a chunk out of the compressor housing...dont want to lookinside the engine as i was on boost (and redline :lol: )

Anyways its pull apart engine time and get forged everything, gt35r and so forth...i looked into the rb30/26 route but was gonna be too expensive as i wanted a reliable set-up..

let us know how it all turns out :)

shane

of course they are, especially with bad treatment.

its been covered so many times before and its pretty common knowledge they wont last forever if your running more than what the car came with factory

Hey guys,

was driving along a couple of weeks agoin my R33 minding my own business when i heard a nasty noise and lost boost. A little investigation revealed a blown turbo. Although i was a bit upset with having my car off the road i seen this as an opportunity to upgrade. I took it to GCG and had them rebuild it and high flow it.

What blew on the turbo? Turbine or compressor? Did you ask GCG?

My guess is compressor, something caused a blade to break and the engine sucked it in. Hence the 1 cylinder damage.

Is it an inlet valve or an exhaust valve? That's also a good indication.

I have NEVER seen or heard of an RB20/25 with ceramic in the cat disease that had any engine damage from the turbine letting go. I have personally replaced 11 RB20/25DET turbos and never seen any indication that the ceramic dust went anywhere other then in the cat. With 6 cylinders pumping out exhaust and one turbo it would take a miracle for the dust to get sucked backwards.

I have only replaced 5 turbos on RB26's with ceramic in the cat disease, and NONE of those showed any indication that the ceramic dust went anywhere other than in the cat. But (there is always a but) with 3 cylinders and 2 turbos, it is slightly more possible that some ceramic dust could sneak back into one (or more) of the 3 cylinders connected to the blown turbo. The turbos I have replaced have been on GTR's that were on the circuit at the time they blew. So they were at high rpm and lots of load, hence plenty of exhaust flow. But 2 of them got driven home, slowly and had ZERO evidence of ceramic dust.

As for porting, the standard RB25/26 cylinder head is over rated, they have average ports and the casting is far from uniform. Remember they were designed in 1987/88. The combustion chamber volumes are not equal, so neither is the compression ratio. There is plenty to be gained from porting and almost as much from polishing the combustion chambers and equalising their volume. Plus it is a far superior method of decreasing the compression ratio, if you want to run high boost (2 bar plus). Matching the inlet and exhaust manifolds to the ports is also very worthwhile.

When ever the cylinder head is off any of my engines, it gets ported. It removes a restriction so that I can make the same power at lower boost, or I can make more power at the same boost.

The old school thinking was "don't bother about porting, turn up the boost". Just push that air past the restriction. Those days are gone, now we make huge power at comparatively low boost levels on unleaded fuel by removing restrictions and avoiding detonation. Good sized/shaped ports and smooth combustion areas are one of our best weapons.

Enough from me..........

:) cheers ;)

I was running pretty much standard boost, i mean i had done the mod on the standard boost controller to run the high setting right through the rev range so with the exhaust freeing it up i was getting about 10-12 psi. Both sides of the turbo let go, there was nothing but a shaft left. I assume the compressor side let go and peices of that destroyed the exhaust side. Can anyone tell me what cams to get, where i'll get the best price and how much they will cost me. Remember standard ecu!

Thanx guys

Looking forward to seeing the results of a turbo upgrade and cams :)  ;)

Tomei poncams are the go from greenline.jp or nengun.com

the beauty with poncams is they are bolt in replacements, i normally surgest adjustable cam wheels so the cams can be fine tuned on the dyno, plus it give you the able to tune to different characteristics.

pete

SK you may not believe me BUT GTR can and offen do cop damage from an explosing exhaust wheel and it's not so much dust more like little chunks which get hammered into valve seats/piston top and head surface, plus normally the cylinders in line with the turbos 2 or 5 bear the brunt of the damage.

"As for porting, the standard RB25/26 cylinder head is over rated, they have average ports and the casting is far from uniform. Remember they were designed in 1987/88. The combustion chamber volumes are not equal, so neither is the compression ratio. There is plenty to be gained from porting and almost as much from polishing the combustion chambers and equalising their volume. Plus it is a far superior method of decreasing the compression ratio, if you want to run high boost (2 bar plus). Matching the inlet and exhaust manifolds to the ports is also very worthwhile."

Would have to agree - recently had mine done and fully flow tested during a rebuild. Combined with cams the difference is unbeleiveable. Huge increases in both power and torque.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
    • I don't know what you should expect with an LS, but the oil pressure sounds terrible, sorry. As for the brakes, you can get fade from the pads not just the fluid, although generally that feels like a wooden block not doing anything while fluid feels like an oh shit there is no pedal so you can generally tell. What pads are you running front and rear?
    • Went over my datalogs on a whim and noticed a worrying combination of events. High RPM High Temperature Low Oil Pressure Knock Retard I bought some 10w-60 because I actually think this will be better going forward given track temp is 125C and 10-40 will actually be thinner in those environments. I know I had a leak but it's not entirely sure how much pressure loss can be attributed to that. The knock retard does correlate with all of the above. When it's not present oil pressure is higher. And by 'low' I mean at 6800 RPM the oil pressure was recorded as low as ~35psi pretty constantly. Which is obviously very not good. I'm hoping that thicker oil that ISNT LEAKING will result in a bit more pressure when I need it. Also in the last session I got a very spongy break pedal. I bled the lines as the car is on jack stand right now with the wheels off and I noticed... no air in the lines? Maybe the tiniest bit of tiny frothy bubbles for the first 0.1 seconds of bleeding the whole car? The breaks did come back to me after I backed off (and felt fine driving normally). Doesn't appear to be any leaks anywhere that I can see. Any thoughts on that?
    • Solution, run shitter tyres. Let wheel spin be your weak link 😛
×
×
  • Create New...