Jump to content
SAU Community

Headlight problem

SamBo

By SamBo,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

SamBo Enthusiast

SamBo

Posted
Posted

Hey all

I've been having a problem with my passenger side headlight on my 1988 Pulsar.

Now, the lights used to work fine. Then the passenger side one started to not come on straight away. Sometimes it would come on after about 10 seconds, so it didn't really worry me. Then it started coming on after several minutes. Soon after it stopped coming on at all.

Now, it is not the bulb.

If I put the high beams on, the light comes on straight away, but goes off again when high beam is turned off.

Then the passenger side high beam stopped working, but that was my fault for removing the bulb without turning it off.... (D'oh!). A new fuse and the highbeam works again, but the headlight still only comes on when highbeam is on too.

Anyone have any ideas of why this is happening and what I can do to fix it?

I should probably take it to an auto electrician, but i dont wanna spend upwards of 70 bucks on something that is probably very easy to fix.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/907-headlight-problem/
Share on other sites
DLuded Mentor

DLuded

Posted
Posted

that happened to be in my shitbox prelude

i had pop-up lights and all it was was the cord wasnt connected to the actually light. When i opened the hood i saw that the electrical cable had somehow fallen off the light and was disconnected. I dont know if this is the probalem but it was my problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/907-headlight-problem/#findComment-19577
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Also on my R32 GTS-T skyline the switch on the dash that is a roll switch turns from off to parkers to lights.

The contacts have a separate contact for both left and right.

Occasionally the same as the power windows they get a heap of junk in between the contacts which fowls them up and also if you are really unlucky like I was the little plastic probe pusher type things that push on the metal contacts when rolling the switch melted causing my left light to stop working all together.

Mine started off as just the light coming on a second or so after the right, then it started to not come on sometimes where I would have to turn the switch on and off once or twice, then it just stopped coming on.

It is possible that Nissan use the same type of switches.

They do for their power windows.

At the same time Also If you run higher than std watt bulbs in your std low beam it will burn out the highbeam stalk switch.

i.e any higher than 55/60

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/907-headlight-problem/#findComment-20707
Share on other sites
  • 2 years later...
cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted
Also on my R32 GTS-T skyline the switch on the dash that is a roll switch turns from off to parkers to lights.

The contacts have a separate contact for both left and right.

Hi guys.

Same problem:

RH lights: OK

LH lights: parkers OK, no dipped or high beam

Checked:

Bulbs OK, correct wattage, both work in the RH headlight

Engine bay fuses OK

Rotary switch: currently in pieces on a desk. The three plates work when tested (direct plug n play). One of the little black buttons appears to have melted? Should they all look like little Beefeater's helmets or should one have a flat end?

Lots of ppl have said there is a L and a R switch. For the life of me I can't work it out. There are three plates - one switches lights off, one for parkers, one turns on the headlights. Where does the L/R headlight pwr come into it? What I mean is, some guys reported that when they turn the rotary switch hard, the dodgy L lights come on whilst pressure is applied.

I checked around with the multimeter and at the black box behind the lights (has wires going direct to dipped beam and wires to high beam light) on the faulty side there is 12V on one terminal and zeroV on the other. The corresponding part on the R (working) side has 12V present on both.

This is really convoluted, but there is a bit to cover. If you've sorted out this drama yourself, or are a dab hand with the electrics, I'd love to hear your thoughts please.

The way I see it, it's either the black box (is it a relay? switch? I'm crap with elec) behind the headlight, or its the switch not working correctly (though I couldn't get both lights to come on when plugging the switch in and activating the lights by manually pressing the contact plate).

Thanks in advance

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/907-headlight-problem/#findComment-1262790
Share on other sites
cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted

Kickass! It (the melted one) was the one on the right, like you said. Cheers Bazelinez.

edit: Ar$e! Painstakingly aligned all the little black things, just tested, no joy. I guess it's a trip to the auto elec after all. Maybe it is that black box behind the light. Damn.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/907-headlight-problem/#findComment-1262889
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Blue slip

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • MBS206
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • MBS206
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Murray_Calavera
      Questions on potential new purchase

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...