Jump to content
SAU Community

Help! Clicking Hicas Relay R32gtr

Macca14

By Macca14,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

armbrusb Proficient

armbrusb

Posted
Posted

I get that and I find it very annoying. I have been meaning to check out what it is and take it off my car. I don't have HICAS anymore so I am happy to hear that it won't break anything else. Do you know where the relay is located?

Macca14 Rookie

Macca14

Posted
  • Author
Posted
AFAIK, it's supposed to happen. It's to keep the hydraulic pressure up to the HICAS unit.

If this is supposed to happen then is it normal to get a slight power drain ?

I notice it at night in idol , the headlights and dash lights flicker in time with the relay's and when the turbo timer is in countdown once the car is turned off at night the HICAS light can be seen clearly flashing in time with the relay's.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
AFAIK, it's supposed to happen. It's to keep the hydraulic pressure up to the HICAS unit.

no it doesn't do that in most 32 GTRs i've driven/been in. it primes the pump when you turn the key to on, but no flickering light or clicking relay every 7 second.

Macca14 Rookie

Macca14

Posted
  • Author
Posted
no it doesn't do that in most 32 GTRs i've driven/been in. it primes the pump when you turn the key to on, but no flickering light or clicking relay every 7 second.

Do you have any sugestions as to what it could be ? Im from Darwin NT and there are only 5 GTR's here 3 of them are 32's and no one has any experiance on electrics for this type of car.

armbrusb Proficient

armbrusb

Posted
Posted

I don't know why it does it. Mine has always done it and it has always annoyed me. Out of interest my car still does it despite the fact that I have taken out the HICAS unit, the soleniod in the middle of the car and the unit in the engine bay under the oil filter. I will be looking for this thing under my boot latch next time I get a chance - hopefully it will be gone after that - I will report back when it's done!

  • 1 year later...
jonnyo Collaborator

jonnyo

Posted
Posted

my 32 gtr does this also. when the attesa is off the click from the soliniod goes away. I have been under my car and it seems that the attesa pump on top of the diff is priming approx every 7 seconds when the click sounds. has anyone been able to cure this issue because with my a/c on when the light flicks while im driving i can feel it thru the steering wheel

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
kismetcapitan Apprentice

kismetcapitan

Posted
Posted

same with my R32 GTR. The clicking relay is on the left side of the boot, rear wall, hidden behind the trim. IIRC correctly it's the leftmost one of the pair sitting there.

I wonder if it's simply electrical, or if a proper bleed of the ATTESA system will cure it?

  • 1 month later...
captain_jonno Contributor

captain_jonno

Posted
Posted

has anyone fixed this? Because I am getting the same issue with the HICAS light flicking on and especially on the freeway after about 80kph the steering wheel moves on a weird angle..

also when the HICAS light flicks on it often causes my headunit to briefly turn off and on at the sametime..

DREW32 Enthusiast

DREW32

Posted
Posted
If this is supposed to happen then is it normal to get a slight power drain ?

I notice it at night in idol , the headlights and dash lights flicker in time with the relay's and when the turbo timer is in countdown once the car is turned off at night the HICAS light can be seen clearly flashing in time with the relay's.

Yes mine does exactly the same thing however i have a r32 gtst plus mine has a slight miss thats in time with the flicker as well WTF!!!

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...