Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I get that and I find it very annoying. I have been meaning to check out what it is and take it off my car. I don't have HICAS anymore so I am happy to hear that it won't break anything else. Do you know where the relay is located?

AFAIK, it's supposed to happen. It's to keep the hydraulic pressure up to the HICAS unit.

If this is supposed to happen then is it normal to get a slight power drain ?

I notice it at night in idol , the headlights and dash lights flicker in time with the relay's and when the turbo timer is in countdown once the car is turned off at night the HICAS light can be seen clearly flashing in time with the relay's.

AFAIK, it's supposed to happen. It's to keep the hydraulic pressure up to the HICAS unit.

no it doesn't do that in most 32 GTRs i've driven/been in. it primes the pump when you turn the key to on, but no flickering light or clicking relay every 7 second.

no it doesn't do that in most 32 GTRs i've driven/been in. it primes the pump when you turn the key to on, but no flickering light or clicking relay every 7 second.

Do you have any sugestions as to what it could be ? Im from Darwin NT and there are only 5 GTR's here 3 of them are 32's and no one has any experiance on electrics for this type of car.

I don't know why it does it. Mine has always done it and it has always annoyed me. Out of interest my car still does it despite the fact that I have taken out the HICAS unit, the soleniod in the middle of the car and the unit in the engine bay under the oil filter. I will be looking for this thing under my boot latch next time I get a chance - hopefully it will be gone after that - I will report back when it's done!

  • 1 year later...

my 32 gtr does this also. when the attesa is off the click from the soliniod goes away. I have been under my car and it seems that the attesa pump on top of the diff is priming approx every 7 seconds when the click sounds. has anyone been able to cure this issue because with my a/c on when the light flicks while im driving i can feel it thru the steering wheel

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

same with my R32 GTR. The clicking relay is on the left side of the boot, rear wall, hidden behind the trim. IIRC correctly it's the leftmost one of the pair sitting there.

I wonder if it's simply electrical, or if a proper bleed of the ATTESA system will cure it?

  • 1 month later...

has anyone fixed this? Because I am getting the same issue with the HICAS light flicking on and especially on the freeway after about 80kph the steering wheel moves on a weird angle..

also when the HICAS light flicks on it often causes my headunit to briefly turn off and on at the sametime..

If this is supposed to happen then is it normal to get a slight power drain ?

I notice it at night in idol , the headlights and dash lights flicker in time with the relay's and when the turbo timer is in countdown once the car is turned off at night the HICAS light can be seen clearly flashing in time with the relay's.

Yes mine does exactly the same thing however i have a r32 gtst plus mine has a slight miss thats in time with the flicker as well WTF!!!

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...