Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im gonna try convince my old boy that he needs to get himself an R34 that some of his mates at work showed him the other day online.

Do you have to get legit Brembo brake pads and brand new tyres when you bring the car in intially? What sort of cash are Brembo pads worth?

Any info would be great so I can try convince him that he really needs a 34. Reckon he's only have interested cos he thinks he'll be quicker than my 32 GTR!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91061-importing-an-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

Brake pads and or rotors dont have to be changed if they are still good ( must be better than 50% left on pads and rotors within specs ) . It must have stock pads/rotors not aftermarket , front pads about $1000 from Nissan .

The car must be all stock to comply, no aftermarket parts and no previous body damage/rust unless on bolt on panels . New stock size tyres ( 245x40x18 ) on stock gtr rims 18x9 , even if it has new tyres fitted in japan you still need new tyres !

Edited by wrxhoon

I'm sure if you go through a workshop that know's the guys at the RTA you could get by with a couple of things, mine had a couple of little panel dings (that still haven't been fixed) and they didn't seem to have an issue.. Just put some stock tires on than take them off when finished.. Borrow some off someone..

Depends on how you want to do it.. personally i'd want everything up to spec..

R34 GTR's cannot be complied with Xenon Headlights. You need to put the non-Xenon's in. Some dodgy places will convert the Xenon to a non-Xenon light and get passed it that way but that is THE biggest waste of good Xenon lights I've ever heard of. Just put the Non-Xenon's in for compliance and then swap them back to the Xenon's after.

They cannot be complied with Xenon's because they are not self adjusting. They are only manually height adjustable. ADR's specify that Xenon or HID Headlights must be automatically height adjustable.

  • 3 weeks later...

Wouldn't it be nice to see the Fed Government put funding into developing systems to ensure old crap heaps are removed from the road than checking to see that fundamentally 'new' cars fitted with a particular brand of brake pad, rotor and tyre!

BL01, you complied your own car? So you're a compliancer?

The law says the non compliant parts that don't meet ADR's or haven't been tested have to be disposed/destroyed. Whether it happens and if you end up with em again is totally dependant on how leniant and/or how daring the compliancer is willing to be. Some compliancers sell the parts back to you at a hugely discounted rate ($1 etc) just to be semi legal.

Its totally within the compliancers rights to tell you that you won't get your Xenon's back as they aren't ADR compliant.

when i complied my own car. I had most of the mods taken out and returned to stock. My mods are returned to me in the end.

Nobody tell me that. I saw it myself with my own eyes. Unless you got ripped by your compliance shop.

[/quote)

When you get your car complied , the raw usualy converts your xenons to halogens , even if the compliencer gives you back the balasts ( they should destroy them like funky said ) you cant reconvert because they use the existing globe fiting to fit a halogen globe in it . You cant take the halogen globe out and fit the xenon globe back in because the fiting is modified and the xenon globe wont fit back in .

I never got ripped off by anyone , i have a 34 gtr with xenons that comply with adr ( self leveling and washers fitted ) .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...