Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

By the sound of it Ben our car's will be hitting the road about the same time, Sweet!

Be good to see your car on the black stuff again Ray, i know its been a while between drives for me :D

Thinking about pulling the 25 head off and fitting a 26.

i know you have probably already decided to go for it but the 26 head would be a far better option. the sound of the 6 throttles is nice to.

could you please PM me a price for the Greddy manifold throttle body and possibly tomei cams? for a friend that is.

thanks damo

Thought I would update:

New Tyres, 30mm spacers on the back :down: Straight as body and new paint!

Will add some progress pics! Ignore the unwashed tyres, need to get some tyre shine onto em. Its getting buffed tomorrow :P

post-54301-1237777429_thumb.jpg

The for sale picture on the car before I got it.

post-54301-1237777439_thumb.jpg

JIC Coilovers, 19" wheels, Tinted windows, Stero system added

post-54301-1237777773_thumb.jpg

Damage that was on the car when I got it

post-54301-1237777781_thumb.jpg

Damage. The front left guard was also buggered and got replaced before the respray

post-54301-1237777448_thumb.jpg

Tinted taillights, damage repaired. Front and rar guards rolled. Rear guards flared a smidge, and also the line that usually sits around the arch taken out. (Still in the front guards)

post-54301-1237777462_thumb.jpg

Car being stripped and preped

post-54301-1237777471_thumb.jpg

Bars and sideskirts painted and in the sun

post-54301-1237777477_thumb.jpg

Car as it sits before buff

post-54301-1237777483_thumb.jpg

Car as it sits before buff

post-54301-1237777491_thumb.jpg

Car as it sits before buff

  • 2 weeks later...

well, after examining the exhaust manifold on the weekend i noticed 2 snapped studs on cyl 6 so decided to take the whole manifold off.. in the end 3 more studs snapped :) so have a total of 5 snapped studs and 7 in ok condition. Will be getting a local guy to drill/ease out the snapped ones and get new studs and gasket in :down:

100_2084.jpg

100_2082.jpg

100_2085.jpg

also have my gtr injectors in, z32 ready to go in too :D just need to sort out PFC now.

Need to sell off my old RB25 stuff to make wat for the new setup. Make some offers.

Greddy plenum,

80mm hypertune throttlebody,

Custom twin feed fuel rail suit top feeds

HKS bov x2,

6boost manifold,

Garrett T51r turbo,

turbosmart 60mm gate

Ported RB25 head with Tomei cams, cam gears, polished cam covers and splitfire coils

well, after examining the exhaust manifold on the weekend i noticed 2 snapped studs on cyl 6 so decided to take the whole manifold off.. in the end 3 more studs snapped :D so have a total of 5 snapped studs and 7 in ok condition. Will be getting a local guy to drill/ease out the snapped ones and get new studs and gasket in :D

Make sure you change the remaining seven studs, there would be nothing worse than breaking one on assembly (can happen) or poping one a couple of weeks later :)

name='Funz' date='7 Apr 2009, 12:46 PM' post='4522249']

well, after examining the exhaust manifold on the weekend i noticed 2 snapped studs on cyl 6 so decided to take the whole manifold off.. in the end 3 more studs snapped :D so have a total of 5 snapped studs and 7 in ok condition. Will be getting a local guy to drill/ease out the snapped ones and get new studs and gasket in :D

Make sure you change the remaining seven studs, there would be nothing worse than breaking one on assembly (can happen) or poping one a couple of weeks later :)

yup, sure do plan on replacing them all :)

yup, sure do plan on replacing them all :D

Where are you getting your bits from? The best place I found was Nissan, I brought new studs, nuts and gasket when I did mine. The manifold studs are an odd length and nissan appears to be the only place that has the right length. :D

Where are you getting your bits from? The best place I found was Nissan, I brought new studs, nuts and gasket when I did mine. The manifold studs are an odd length and nissan appears to be the only place that has the right length. :D

yeah, am going genuine nissan, gasket is like 108, studs and nuts are like 20ish.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well, over the last few weeks after my ding I have been searching and acquiring replacement parts to fix my car up. Things are going well and smoothly, and am fixing up all issues associated while its off the road :-)

Chris from southern thread repair arrived today to fix the broken studs and replace them , all done and now it's time to bolt it all together!!!!

currently have the following ordered ready to install :-)

exhaust gasket

exhaust studs and nuts

turbo studs and nuts

radiator hosing

timing belt

p/steer belt

alternator belt

water pump

headlights

Motul oil

lots of coolant

power steering fluid

brake fluid

oil cooler and relocation kit

z32 wiring cleaned up

finish off injector power wiring

gauge wiring

new front mount core

reo bar

radiator

also need to bolt manifold back on, turbo, and exhaust and intake piping :) gonna be a busy weekend lol.

well, new exhaust manifold studs in, gasket on, manifold bolted on, turbo studs in, turbo bolted on as well as exhaust to turbo. Inlet pipes all back on. Have a mate coming down this weekend to change timing belt to my new gates belt and also water pump and throw on my new p/steer belt and alternator belt :P

z32 all wired up and plugged in, injectors resistor back all wired in!

all needed now is my radiator support bar bent back into shape and i can start bolting radiator, fmic, headlights and bonnet mount back on. waiting on some replacement pins to mod my pfc up then do fluid flush and the car is ready for tuning :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...