Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

January - but If Ant hears that my engine won't be together until Feb! (Mods - pls lock ND4SPD out of this thread lol)

very good, you'll have to come for drive down to buno (like if you need an excuse for a drive that is hehehe) should have the new shed up and ready for business(fingers crossed) and the R run in, I dont know if you know but Collie sprint circuit is up and running again with a new surface (surpose to be quiet nice).

pete

how much more lag are we talking. Are the exhurst temps better on the GTRS turbos compaired to the 2530/2560r. would also like to see both of jagr33 dyno runs side by side i was lookn at the t51z.

The T517Z's were an awesome turbo as far as producing power, not too much lag about 4800rpm full boost (1.4bar) in fourth gear. It was the way these turbos hit boost that I was concerned with, especially for a circuit car. I found that boost would build slowly and then all of a sudden it was on, where as I'm assuming the Garrets (being ball bearing) will build boost more linearly. It probably won't push you back in the seat as much as before, but with boost building a little earlier and more linear it would be more suited to the track as the car won't try and spin you around when coming out of a corner coz of the way it hits boost so hard. My car will be on the road in 2 weeks, so I'll post up a graph for comparison.

Cheers

Some people like my old man dont even believe in a run in, the work out medium load on the dyno then straight into power runs, i guess it works cause hasnt blown an engine

sure works, my 25 was done similar to that. like that with a lot of others these days too from what i hear

Hey sydkid greedy make these in an over size kit which i quess is for there 2.7lt kit not sure if it comes with a/c pully as well but may help those people looking to rev past the 9000rpm mark

http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1130376579.jpg

Brad

Was lucky enough to score a ride in a GTRS equipped GTR the other day. Stock stroke rb26, 260 high lift cams, and with compression ratio slightly lower than std this car makes 380rwkw at 1.3bar. (Motor was still fresh, soon to get tuned with more boost.)

I was extremely impressed and in about 30seconds i was sold on these. i will definitly be getting a pair. Still using dead stock exhaust manifolds (unbridged), the turbo shuffle was extremely minimal, pretty much on par with my 2530's! depending on what gear your in you wouldnt even notice it.

while the dyno sheets may look it, they certainly dont feel laggy, and response felt not far off of my 2530 setup. Full boost at just over 5000rpm, but still pulling nicely from the midrange. And they hit awesomely when full boost arrives, and dont let off till you hit the limiter (8200 in this car)!

i can only imagine that on a higher comp ratio 2.8litre, these turbos will be nothing short of sensational.

Was lucky enough to score a ride in a GTRS equipped GTR the other day. Stock stroke rb26, 260 high lift cams, and with compression ratio slightly lower than std this car makes 380rwkw at 1.3bar. (Motor was still fresh, soon to get tuned with more boost.)

I was extremely impressed and in about 30seconds i was sold on these. i will definitly be getting a pair. Still using dead stock exhaust manifolds (unbridged), the turbo shuffle was extremely minimal, pretty much on par with my 2530's!  depending on what gear your in you wouldnt even notice it.

while the dyno sheets may look it, they certainly dont feel laggy, and response felt not far off of my 2530 setup. Full boost at just over 5000rpm, but still pulling nicely from the midrange.  And they hit awesomely when full boost arrives, and dont let off till you hit the limiter (8200 in this car)!

i can only imagine that on a higher comp ratio 2.8litre, these turbos will be nothing short of sensational.

I'm glad you are impressed. They are certainly not a popular terb for the "keyboard tuners" but in the real world I was certainly happy with these on my std 2.6.

I'm expecting good things with my 2.8 and higher ratio (gts4) diffs. :P

Was lucky enough to score a ride in a GTRS equipped GTR the other day. Stock stroke rb26, 260 high lift cams, and with compression ratio slightly lower than std this car makes 380rwkw at 1.3bar. (Motor was still fresh, soon to get tuned with more boost.)

I was extremely impressed and in about 30seconds i was sold on these. i will definitly be getting a pair. Still using dead stock exhaust manifolds (unbridged), the turbo shuffle was extremely minimal, pretty much on par with my 2530's!  depending on what gear your in you wouldnt even notice it.

while the dyno sheets may look it, they certainly dont feel laggy, and response felt not far off of my 2530 setup. Full boost at just over 5000rpm, but still pulling nicely from the midrange.  And they hit awesomely when full boost arrives, and dont let off till you hit the limiter (8200 in this car)!

i can only imagine that on a higher comp ratio 2.8litre, these turbos will be nothing short of sensational.

I have been trying to tell people that for months!!

haha, keyboard tuners :O

yeah mik, well the vast majority of people saying they'd be laggy etc hadnt even tried them! but that was enough to seed doubt in my mind before i actually experienced them for myself!

so thats turbos sorted, now its cams :O

can anyone tell me how much lift affects top end power? are there any rules of thumbs to go by, such as 'x'mm increase in lift will give 'x' kw extra?

at this stage im thinking of something around 270 duration with at least 10+mm lift.

Edited by SLY33
  • 3 weeks later...

the kit has arrived, heres some of the crank. As nice as it is next to the stock crank, still not as impressive as StageZilla's billet item!

HKS forged 2.8 crank as supplied with step 2 kit:

crank007.jpg

crank009.jpg

crank012.jpg

im yet to take pics of the rods and pistons. Rods arent anything special to look at, but pistons look interesting with the black molybdenum coated skirts and gold nickel coated tops.

nice gear mate looks like another pricey build on the way :lol:

so how come the hks crank isnt nice and smooth like the JUN one?

im going 272/11.35mm lift cams but unfortunately i aint run it yet to tell u how it is. thanks to the 22 weeks ive waited for machining of a head and block :P

heres the pics of the surface of my crank...

105_0598.jpg

105_0597.jpg

Edited by StageZilla
so how come the hks crank isnt nice and smooth like the JUN one?

yours is machined billet, mine is still a cast crank. the step 3 hks is full billet, but also way more expensive :P For my application the step 2 will be more than enough.

damn the apexi one looks great too!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...