Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

The time has come to replace my pads and rotors. The rb74's i ran have chewed the rotors so much that the slots are just about gone. As a result i am a little reluctant to run rb74's again.

And to make life interesting my car runs an odd ball disk and caliper combo. I have 305mm slotted disks and what looks like an r33 sumitomo caliper with a bigger offset and larger bolt (i think it was 18mm vs the stock 16/17mm bolt) where it attaches to the upright.

What i'm looking to do is get a set of r34 GTT 310mm rotors and have them machined down to suit.

So my questions are: Is this possible? What disks are people using? (the car is a street with plans to be an occasional track car) and what pads?

I know, fairly general, but i'll be looking to do this in a month or so when i have some more money and wouldn't mind being able to research and get quotes up front.

Cheers

Dave

EDIT: added a pic. Anyone actually know what they're off. I was sold them as r32 Vspec 1 brakes.

post-2863-1129518128.jpg

Edited by BHDave
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91384-time-for-new-pads-and-rotors/
Share on other sites

I am using RB74 Pads and have slotted rotors yet they are not wearing them like you mentioned.

Also Anything that is going to compete with RB 74's i.e. Greenstuff pads are going to seriously eat your rotors.

Is that picture of your front calipers OR front and rear OR do you have 4 spot front and rear??

Cos if they are both your front they are different.

And they wouldnt be off a Vspec 1 as they would be Brembo.:angry:

Cheers,

Can some one offer a little more info on these "RB74s" as i havent heard of them before.

I just put R33 GTS brakes in my R31 and am looking for some new pads, been recomended Bendix Advance or Ferodo DS2000, im trying to steer clear of the EBCs.

And whats the consensus on Protec rotors?

Cheers,

Brent.

rather good 'bang for your buck' pad if you're doing track work, but i run them on the street as well and find that if you need to stop in a hurry for some reason, after just driving around in normal traffic... good luck, as they take a bit to warm up...

But once they're up to temp (i.e. on a track) i found that they're great! i did 7 hard laps of QR and couldn't get them to fade, even after pulling up hard for turn 6 and turn 2, time after time.

Dave. I've got gtst brakes and project mu pads in my car from mu's secret shop.

You should come try them out you'd be suprised how quick the 1300kg cefiro pulls up with those on stock rotors.

I'd recommend them.. I bought the lower end of the scale >400degrees. They also do >800degrees but they'd be a bit more than I paid which I think was around $300.

Thanks cc,

I've had others recommending the project mu gear, i've been quoted 380 by mu secret for the top end street pad (can't remember the name, but it's the replacement for the TItan HC). They are one step down from the 777 which are race oriented.

I also asked about r34 GTT 2 piece rotors while i was on the phone with them. They told me 1100, i fell off my chair.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...