Jump to content
SAU Community

Import Approval For Motorsport

mitch01
 Share

Recommended Posts

mitch01 Newbie

mitch01

Posted
Posted

Hi,

Just wanted to know if any of you guys have experience with, or knowledge of importing a car that is not eligible under SEVS but for race/rally use only. I understand the a current CAMS license is required - but what type? is a L2S license enough?

And will DOTARS let these cars be brought in just for weekend warrior track day type use or is it only for serious competition in a recognised racing class?

Any info on the legality of driving to & from race events would be appreciated also.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91499-import-approval-for-motorsport/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

you will need a PC or NC or better licence. you best bet is to import the car as a rally car, then you will be able to gain some restricted rego. this will enable you to drive to and from the track providing you apply for a permit first.

I believe they also have a requirment that you have to have competed in a certain number of events in the preceding year.

Duncan on this forum may be able to give you more info.

  • 2 weeks later...
bootlegapparel Enthusiast

bootlegapparel

Posted
Posted

You need an L3 licence to get it, unless it's 1988 and older, and then you just wouldn't register it.

To get an L3 licence you need to have competed in a number of competitve motorsport activities over a certain ammount of time.

Its all on the CAMS site.

Paradizzle Grand Master

Paradizzle

Posted
Posted

If you knew someone very well with one of these licences then they would be able to import the car for you? Well their not allowed to, but after they have done all the paperwork whats to stop them selling it straight away?

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

If you have C (track) license the import approval states never to be issued license plates, only can a R (Rally) be registered.

Now if the car is sold you need to sight their License being C or R, the rules have been looked into due to all the cars coming in and driven around every day.

http://www.dotars.gov.au/transreg/vsb/vsb_10.htm

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

Plus when you get import approval for a race import it will clearly say on the approval that its not eligible to be road registered ever. You can get a permit commonly called a rally permit in some states, which costs about $100 more than normal rego, that allows you to take the car to and from a workshop, or to events.

L2S isn't hard to get, just signing up to a club can get you that, you need a PC or NC minimum. That means log book maintenance, track time, physical tests etc. As said before, easiest thing to do is check the CAMS website.

Nigel, I dunno about Rally permit only being issed if the car is held by an R License owner. I got a rally permit for a car and all I had was an L2S. I think its something that's up to the discrepancy of the vehicle registrar in your state rather than commonwealth law.

Paradizzle Grand Master

Paradizzle

Posted
Posted

Yer, but someone could buy a 'race' car on your behalf and when it gets here you can purchase that race car off that person and use it for racing yes? For instance if my uncle wanted a subaru race preped for racing he could get his mate to import it as he has the relevant licence. Nothing stoping people who are able to import cars for racing only then selling them to other people who want a race car?

its to f**king hot, so not sure if that makes sense.

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted

I want to know why you need a CAMS licence at all? Seems to me the roundy roundy guys get all the laughs!

Why doesn't my ANDRA licence let me import a drag use only car?!?!?

DOTARS - "Stick it for your arse!!"

Adrian :angry:

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

because CAMS are the FIA body in Australia not ANDRA, and ANDRA have chosen not to work through the official body, they are like AAAA or any other club :D

You certainly can buy a car that was imported for race or rally use. In NSW if you want to register a rally car you must have L2S or higher.

A race car can never be registered. A rally car can get conditional rally rego in NSW

The only real problem with importing and selling race or rally only use car is that there are conditions you have to meet for the import, and there are a limit of 1 or 2 cars a year.

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted

CAMS suck mighty huge balls - Everyone operates under an FIA mandate - shouldn't have to do shit to bring in a race use only car that will never see the road EVER.

I'm finding out how the big yank tanks that run SS/A come in. None of them have CAMS licences, I'm sure of it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...