Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What do you guys reckon

Is my turbo out of puff or something else not right?

AFR's where 11.5 going to 12.1 up top

HKS GT2510 as far as I know

My tuner reckons that about it for that turbo, I agree. I thought about cams, but he said if the turbo is just too small, it will make the problem worse, as the engine will be more efficient, but the turbo won't be able to keep up

Thanks, Chris

post-493-1129612453.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91502-2510-on-rb20-out-of-puff/
Share on other sites

Yeah, 2510 is the smallest of the HKS range, well it was before they stopped making it!

I want a genuine 220rwkw, as I rekcon that where some good numbers lie both at the drags and around Mallala.

I want a low 13sec car, and something I can lap Mallala in around 1.25

I'd be happy with that. I just want to be able to use the revs, as at the moment it feels like it dies in the ass after about 5500rpm, as you can see on the dyno sheet

What would you want for your turbo? It would be interesting to see what it makes on a RB20!

lol...dunno what its worth, as i bought it with the car when it was freshly highflowed. Its made about 220rwkw with this motor (i reckon it has slightly more due to the air pod shitter im running which will be changed soon)

Ive got pics of the exhaust and compressor side...Shaun and Cubes have seen it too....depends on when i'll be buying the xr6 GT35r for mine as to when ill be taking it off....I'll catch up with you this Sat. at Boostworx and discuss more on it ;)

Chris32

Between 118 and 130kmph your torque band is dead flat but your KW figure goes from 180 to 193. than ofer that it tapers off real quick. so to get the power you want it will need to breethe better up top.

As you are rubnning 1.35 bar the compressor is spinning at its max efficency range at high rpm so the only way to make more power is with better flow.

Considering you prob already have a very free flowing exhaust. 3" turbo back with a good dump pipe and a very high flowing catalitic converter, there are a couple of things you can do.

1. cool the intake charge further. If you dont have one you could make a waterspray kit for your intetrcooler. because at 1.35 bar you can bet your intake temps could benifit from further cooling help. this will make intake air denser, and make more power. on my car it made 13RWKW difference. ;)

2. you also need to make it easier for the turbo to ram that air in!!! ruling out headwork as its too expensive your only other option will be cams.

350nm is very good torque for the ol RB20 and without better flow you won't usually get any more than that.

also your boost curve is fantastic and i bet your car is very fast on the street and thru the windy stuff.

I think if you can get 220rwkw with that turbo you will have a very fast car. but the odds are stacked against you :)

Boost does nose over after peak power, down to about 16psi

Exhaust is no restriction, 3.5" dump, no mufflers or cat execpt for the rear can

I think air out is the main issue, exhaust housing causing restriction

Its only rated at 300PS!

Getting re-tuned tomorrow, as that tune is quite lean. Going for more timing and fuel. I want to see at least 200rwkw, maybe a bit more if possible

Might try it at 1.2bar and see if that helps with a bit of top end. The mid-range on the road is lots of fun though

Quite a few people keen on my turbo! Lots of PM's!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...