Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if i use these struts in the hr30 do i have the use the r31 insert or will the r30 insert fit?

i'm getting a set for my r31 gxe, but wanted to put them in my hr30 for compliance cause i have to take out the coilovers, i can still use the r32 calipars and rotors on the import r31 struts...

Edited by rsx84
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91960-hr31-struts-in-a-hr30/
Share on other sites

From memory, the R31 struts are shorter than the R30 inserts. You will need to use the R31 strut and insert complete (and if you are doing it for compliance / rego purposes only, why would you care).

Oh, and when you find a second set, just shoot me a PM please... :D

Cheers,

Matt

The Australian built R31 struts are different to Japanese built ones. The inserts are different between both.

Most import sedans and coupes have the same struts and inserts, though I have heard that some of the R31 imports (RB20E/RB20ET models) have a strut more like the Australian models that have a non floating hub, which severly limits your brake upgrade options.

So I guess go with a set from anything RB20DE/RB20DET powered and you'll be right

i've got the konis book here and they class the sedan and coupe as the same insert??

Yeah,they are different though! Spacers under Aussie inserts is rather dodgey too,as the top of the Jap inserts are different shape to Aussie ones as well! And the import struts have a solid top hat with a proper ball bearing race,as opposed to sloppy rubber ones for the local model.

Yeah,they are different though! Spacers under Aussie inserts is rather dodgey too,as the top of the Jap inserts are different shape to Aussie ones as well! And the import struts have a solid top hat with a proper ball bearing race,as opposed to sloppy rubber ones for the local model.

ok the question is. you say they are 1" shorter in shock length, would this also mean the total lenth of the strut is shorter?, can the R31 fronts be bolted in onto a hr30 ?

If im thinking right, that would lower it 1"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks mate, couldn't find in VIC, ended up ordering one from NSW, getting rwc to get new plates and registration done.
    • Before all the EFR fan boys come in, have a look at: https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-ii-g30-825-58mm/ It also comes in a T4 1.06 divided housing. I would dare say if you want response & also decent power, this thing would chop.   AND apologies, just re-read your post, you've already bought the turbo... whatever you do, make sure you stick with divided housing and proper twin scroll manifold.
    • People have got to stop doing that. ShatGPT is not a search engine. It is a hallucination factory.   I also would recommend the 1.05. The .83 will "work" for you , in that it will be more responsive, but I think you'll find that it won't be anywhere near as good running it out to 8000rpm as the big housing will be.
    • Decided for the first time ever I would tow my car TO the track day on the same working theory as bringing tools and spares "if I have it I wont need it, but if I leave it behind i will 100% need it" all setup and ready to go out and try these A050 for the first time First session showed I needed to stiffen up the dampers a touch but still managed a few 1:21's without much effort. things were looking good. Came in a dropped the tyres down  to 26/28 as they had gotten to 35/33C from 22C cold The first lap of session two I managed to drop into 1:20's. Then in the second lap into the second session. Coming into T3 and I suddenly lost brake pedal followed by some huge rear end vibrations and scraping sounds. Got it back into the pits after session ended and found this. in the attached video, all of the wobble is in the hub its self, wheel is mint, and bearing feels tight. lKXLqpd - Imgur.mp4   Deciding it was a bent spindle I tried to find bearing/hub assembly locally but was unsuccessful so it was loaded back onto the trailer i luckily brought it on to drag it back home  
    • 1.05 you’ve gotta let it breath 
×
×
  • Create New...