Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I never measured it but you could use a fuse closer to the current draw of your pump. You got me interested so threw the clamp on to my car just then, 9.4A continuous didn't seem to change at all. Driving a bosch 044 intank. I dare say that a stock pump or gtr pump wouldn't use that much, throw a 15A fuse on there, the wiring will definitely handle greater than than the current required to pop a 15A fuse. Measure yours if you want, I don't have any others to compare against.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
040 in ur 33 will b no problem

mines been in my car for 8-10 months now and never had any problems...

Yer, so will rewiring the fuel pump be necessary as it is in an r32? Will the same process be used to do so? I went out and bought all the wiring already...

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, I did this last friday, actually in the exact same way like gumflappers' wiring diagram.

I'm currently running a stock pump, but it feels like it's running smoother through gears, turbo seems to spool a bit better... so my 'gut dyno' says it was worth effort.

But now my fuel warning light stays on all the time... haven't tried to reset the ECU, but I don't think that'll solve the problem.

Anyone who has come across this problem?

Taking the bulb out is no solution haha :P

If somebody could help me out on this one, please do :)

I opened up the fuel pump wiring assembly or whatever you'd like to call it, looked at the pins, but it looks fine, and should make contact (just like it did before I started out modding it)... the pins are locked firmly in the plug, as they were before I even touched them.

This is how I did the wiring;

12v%20wiring%20pump.jpg

(I took the relay from the diagram by 'gumflapper').

I first depinned both ground and '12v' feed wire from the plug, then cut off the stock wires from the pins, and soldered the new thicker wire to the pins... the two pins fit well inside the plug and are not loose or something like that.

To get rid of the fuel-light coming on in my gauge cluster, I also tried to get the ground for the pump from the original loom, so the diagram looks a bit like this;

12v%20wiring%20pump%20stock%20ground.jpg

It still had that friggin' light in the gauge cluster :/

I then put it back to the first situation, and took the ground wire from the battery of for about 10-15 minutes, pushed the brake pedal a couple of times, doors open with dome light 'on', etc.

Still has the light coming on :)

What seems weird to me, is that when I meassured the voltage at the three-pin plug, I read a higher voltage when using the ground from the stock pump loom, than when I used a ground from a bolt in the chassis.

What am I doing wrong in all this?

Also, anybody who knows what the two-pin plug is for?

I don't read any voltage from both, with ignition switched on and off, and using the chassis as well as the stock loom for ground.

There's nothing about this in the service manual (that, or I just didn't find it).

Edited by stefan-w

hey

your much better off grounding the pump either to the battery directly or close to it. gounding it thru the wiring lume will reduce the voltage that the pump recieves therefore defeating the purpose of this mod.

post-44390-1254914219_thumb.jpg

in the photo above, you can see the 6mm brown and blue wires that feed the fuel pump. i would be checking the other smaller wires in the tank. i assume (never checked them myself) that they are from the low-level sensor. make sure all of ur wiring is correct and secured/soldered properly and check that all the plugs/sockets are locked together firmly.

however upon looking at that image there seems to be a few more wires in the tank (bottom rhc)... any ideas on what they could be?

I've got ground directly from the battery, just like the 12v feed... it's exactly as in the diagram you made :banana:

Only I used black and red wiring haha, the loom only powers the relay.

That second diagram I've posted was a try, to see if that would solve the problem (wich it didn't, so I went back to your wiring diagram).

Only now do I see you've pulled but wires to the pump, not just to the plug on top of the tank (wich I did)... this shouldn't make a difference I hope?

I'll do so when upgrading the pump, but not on the stock one.

Is that unprotected wiring and an open plug floating around in your fuel tank? :dry:

Are you sure that's entirely save?

i thought the same thing when i took out the stock pump (WTF r all those wires floating around in my fuel? :S) i decided not 2 fix what didnt seem broken... lol

"Only now do I see you've pulled but wires to the pump" i dont understand :S

Crap... 'typo', and I should have written it a bit more clear :rant:

What I meant; I only replaced the wiring up to the female connector (wich goes on top of the fuel tank).

I noticed just then that you have also replaced the thin stock wiring from the male connector to the pump itself, inside the fuel tank... obviously, I did not.

I don't think that'll cause my light to come on though, but I'm no expert.

replacing the wiring to the fuel pump inside of the tank itself will have nothing to do with the low-level sensor... 2 b honest i could not tell you what the sensor even looks like as ive never pulled it out. i had enuf trouble getting the fuel pump in and out let alone the low-level sensor.

  • 3 months later...
pidibump!!

I read the whole 12 page thread. Most people talk about r33 or 32 gts or 32 with Aftermarket pump.

What about Stock fuel pump on a GTR 32 with something like 350whp.

Any benefit?

Maybe, that this help you out:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...