Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cammos green r32 has a rb30 like bens in it

you will need a foward facing plenum or else you will have trouble shuttin ya bonnet tho

yeah as james said unless u want to dick around with after market bonnet u need the forward facing plenum the RB30 sits up a lot more then the 20's do

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92144-finally/page/4/#findComment-1671907
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah as jaimes said unless u want to dick around with after market bonnet u need the forward facing plenum the RB30 sits up a lot more then the 20's do

about 40mm higher IIRC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92144-finally/page/4/#findComment-1675116
Share on other sites

hahah awesome!!

absolute bargain too well done. At least you have a live axel rear end so you should be able to get some even traction/tyre wear. From the power figures its making the same as what mine was and trust me, your going to need bigger tyres

what gearbox is in it??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92144-finally/page/4/#findComment-1676290
Share on other sites

So is it fast? :(

I would just get widened steelies, and some hubcaps on them, and some nice semi slicks and just not drive it in the wet :D

If your cluch is stuffed too, go see Jim Berry, he'll fix it.

And, please always leave at least 1 lane gap between your car and mine if you ever see me, I dont wish to die when you decide to spin 4th up the motorway :) thanks!

Awsome awesome sleeper tho, try keep it quiet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92144-finally/page/4/#findComment-1676330
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

That funny shroud isnt what they call a twin scroll compressor housing??

block is 38mm higher then std rb blocks. You slot out engine mount bolts holes and let it drop down to clear bonnet if u dont have a forward facing plenum eg greddy/gtr plenum. Or go drift spec and raise the bonnet at the rear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92144-finally/page/4/#findComment-1786635
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...